A Feasting We Will Go…The Pleasures of Excess!

Why, Oh Why do I go here…What is the point…Who cares and who listens? Well my beloved food friendly friends, it is you! You of all people get this …it is why you are here, reading the culinary musings of one who has spent endless evenings in a Grand Mal of flavor induced euphoria. Yet, it is simply not enough. You [We] want more, we need more and yet, with each attainable moment of temporal success, and after the endorphins have subsided, we are left crashed like a heroine junkie, sad, sullen, even morose…ah, yet here it comes…quietly at first, then building with increasing momentum, like a massive rock slide catapulting down the mountain…the thought blasts out of our skulls, loud enough to at least get our attention…what shall I have to eat next! Yes, that’s it!!! Options…many options, must be selective though…I only have this one opportunity for this one evening...must get it right. What shall it be? The answer to this question is largely dependent on mood. Here are a few simple suggestions on how to deal with this issue and maximize the opportunity:

1. Never order anything you can make better at home;
2. Whatever it is that you order, always order enough for a late night snack or breakfast (I do this all of the time, and actually write “leftovers for breakfast” on my receipts submitted to Clients – this way it is not so shocking that I spent $80 on a 5 oz. piece of Japanese Kobe Beef; I really do eat the leaftovers for breakfast!);
3. Stretch your taste buds into another culinary realm (I get very annoyed with folks who live their entire lives in a very narrow ethnic food lane); use the ever popular IPhone app – “Ethnic Food Lovers Delight” [not a bad idea, anyone interested in a little design work? $0.99 x 2 million subscribers will put a lot of puffer fish cheeks on your plate];
4. Go for things you need to eat with fingers, chop sticks, over-sized ladles, or slurp from a large vat;
5. Be sure that whatever it is, pork fat is involved [duck fat will also do in a pinch];
6. If number 5 above is not readily available, ask for a larding needle and do it yourself;
7. Ensure plenty of tasty beverages accompany the adventure;
8. And, lastly, order something that you can share with an invited friend or two; eating alone is about nutrition, eating with another is a party.

It is perfectly natural to enjoy the experience of decision-making, but once decided, move swiftly if you must, or linger quietly in the confidence that a decision has been struck, warmed in the knowledge that you have carved out a wonderful selection of plates, tailored to your specific mood of the moment and enjoy another glass of wine.

It’s a pity that we can’t embark on this adventure like every couple of hours or so. Maybe my heaven will present such an opportunity; my hell will, of course, include roast suckling pig!

Here we go again! Celebrity Chefs

This is a bona fide phenomenon. I remember back in the very early nineties, watching a very young Emeril Lagasse, another fellow, Pasquale Carpino, who would belt out operatic arias and steam saute his way through the show, Martin Yan, also very young, and of course Julia Child and Jacques Pepin. Who would have thought that almost 20 years later we would have such an array of TV entertainment dedicated to food and the people who cook it! Giada, can you say for me: "brooschkettaaa"? Mario, can you say: "the undisputed king of cheese, parmegianno reggggggiaannooooo"? Emeril - how about: Bam, bam, bam-bam? Guy Fieri - is it money or is it just off the hook? Paula - can you make anything without a "1/2 pound of buuutteeerrr"? Tyler - how about the "ultimate" farte? Bobby - just how many chili peppers does it take to grill a shrimp? Oh, speaking of peppers, Rick Bayless is purported to be the best ambassador of authentic Mexican cuisine in the US, and I am inclined to agree - he does not really have any signature tag lines - but he could speak at little less deliberately. Andrew Zimmerman - what the hell are you going to choke down next - stinky tofu smeared on a bagel, topped with wild boar snot? How about the Iron Chef, with that stringy acrobatic host - cause we need him to coordinate everything - a panel of no less than 3 "experts", two of which typically don't know a damn thing about cooking, a mystery ingredient that each battle contestant has known about for several weeks, and Alton Brown, chirping his way through the show with a blizzard of gastronomic food facts, like I care. The worst is that other commentator - Kevin Brauch - he adds such richness and dimension to the program when he recaps the scoring formula and helps me count to 5; I was left in tatters when he told Alton about the fish poop and kelp ice cream Iron Chef Morimoto had just made. Then you have Gordon Ramsay: yeah, bollux the bloody whatever, throw the dish down the bloody toilet and get the f%$&** out of here, you ingrate!" (Wow that does feel refreshing) This is only the beginning - it will never end, and it will provide ongoing fodder for food bloggers all over the world. Out of this chaotic melange of celebrity chefs, comes at least one with the integrity, the selflessness and creativity to dominate the food scene: What would we do to fill our pantries without Sandra Lee?

This was such fun that I think I'll do another blog on Celebrity Chefs.

Anthony Bourdain ~ finally someone gets me!

This is the man that changed everything, and pretty much all at once with the birth of No Reservations! He has spent 28 years sweating, smoking, drinking, eating, creating and enjoying his career immensely. Now, he has achieved the pinnacle of prominence, the acme of ACME, the fundamental Holy Grail of what I believe to be the very best profession imaginable: he writes, eats, travels and is always hungry for more. Not every Chef could pull this off. His appeal is so refreshing, and a sharp departure from the well-scripted verse imposed by the FoodTV network. Anthony would never tolerate such a thing. In a staccato burst of creative expletives (I mean, how can you not admire a fellow like that), he would storm out of the #$%&&* set in a blaze of fury, snarling with abject disdain. Why do I like this guy? Because he is the real deal - not some pre-fabricated TV personality. And, I have noticed a subtle change over his 5 seasons. He is focusing increasingly on the human condition and the learnings so generously offered, with food as the pivot point! This is the friction that ignites the story. Everything about his show captures the essence, the spirit, the core of his view in the moment of exploration. He reactions are always genuine. There is a bit of a hard edge to him, that when turned inside out reveals a very soft downy, almost drowsy lining that has such appeal. He can be warm, yet turn on a dime into a scathing critic of whatever is in his view finder at that instant. His enjoyment of food is boundless. The contemporary physio-metrics and the science of metabolic processing demands grafting a porta-potty to his backside ~ how can he survive some of those ethnic feasting bouts? Would that I could travel to the some of the special places that he's been - thank God he provides a vehicle for the unexplorable. He gets me, because I get him!

The Movable Feast ~ Friday Day 5:

By now, my cholesterol levels lie beyond the limits of present measurability. I have taken on a unique skin tone, no doubt attributed to the natural sheen my coat has absorbed from fat.

318 Mill Café (Excelsior, MN): Matt found this little gem for our final lunch that was a convenient shot for me to the MSP airport. Greg Archer, another GRE Environmental Professional joined us. We began with two homemade pizzas: apple, bacon, gorgonzola and a Serrano ham, pear & chevre, accented with a spinach/balsamic reduction. The dough is made fresh daily. We generally don’t like to mix fruit with savory on pizzas, but the combination work very well. For my main lunch, I ordered the Cured Meat tray that included very generous portions of Serrano, sopressata, chorizo, conrnichons, kalamata olives, sautéed walnuts and baguette. Greg had a taco assortment, his favorite being the potato, chorizo, with queso fresco. Then there is Matt; his deliberations took quite a while ~ he must have reviewed their little menu 100 times, interspersing his reading with forays to inspect the dessert bar. He finally decided on a turkey, brie, apple sandwich slathered with honey/pecan butter. He then “taco cost averaged” his way into two nice ones: the chorizo potato and also shredded chicken. We were stuffed, but not Matt – he consumed a rather huge artisan cupcake in about three bites. I sweat just thinking about it! If you get a chance, you must go to the 318 Mill Café, it won’t disappoint!

Thanks!

At the end of the day, it is amazing how food can bring people of diverse interests together, and is this particular instance, to share the gluttonous bounty produced during this week-long harvest. Thanks to Erik for his home-smoked salmon, to Lloyd Brandt for the smoked salmon from Lowes, and a special thanks to Matt for all of the work he must have invested to bring this all together. He has already commenced preparations for my next visit. To preview: indigenous fresh Lake Superior fish boils; outdoor pizza oven cook your own, adventure; Thai submarine sandwiches (this I gotta experience) and Heaven knows what else is lurking behind that under-nourished noggin of his! Bon Appetite!

ps ~ Minnesota, who would have ever guessed!

pss ~ apologies for my incorrect assertion in a prior article that "anything on a stick" is a signature Minnesotan dish - only at the State Fair, where you can bet your last dollar that each year out performs the last in this regard.

The Movable Feast ~ Thursday Day 4: (Cambridge and Grandy, MN)

Breakfast: Smoked salmon this time from Lowes located in Two Harbors provided courtesy of Lloyd Brandt, NCT Foreman; brown sugar brined; medium to cold smoked…very nice, and I noticed that Erik agreed.

Brass Rail (Grandy, MN): Matt describes this as a tiny joint in Northern Minnesota, but one with the very best broasted chicken. It appears that Minnesota has its very own selection of “ethnic” foods; among them are: Northern Whitefish; Smoked Trout; Native Wild Rice; and of course, broasted chicken. Here’s the deal ~ broasted chicken is not fried chicken per se, but rather seasoned and floured chicken on the bone (no boneless breasts will do here!), deep fried in a controlled temperature pressure cooker; very tricky to pull off. With the right touch, the chicken emerges with the most excellent crispy tangy skin, and very moist delectable meat inside. If all of the preparations and execution are not precise, you wind up with grease-laden, over-cooked outside, and under-cooked red to the bone on the inside. This is why everyone celebrates when somebody gets it right! And, believe me, the Brass Rail gets it right! As you can see from the photos, there were no dainty portions of breast meat and they will assemble any chicken pieces that you like! Sides included toast and Cole Slaw; you have your potato option: waffle fries, broasted potatoes, tater tots, and so on. This is by far the very best chicken I have ever eaten – bar none, anywhere in the USA.

For your information, the Owner has constructed a mobile broasting rig: this means catering an on-premise broast-fest. Oh, yeah!

THE MOVABLE FEAST (a short series)

Well you see, Matt Herman is an Environmental Professional, gourmand, localvore and bon vivant, a big fellow to be sure, with a bigger heart and an insatiable passion for food, particularly good food and lots of it; he is also bit of a wise guy (at least with me). He takes great care in managing his culinary environment, and is not adverse to exploration, or exploitation (See rib cost averaging in Tuesday's report). While on a consulting assignment with Great River Energy in Minnesota, Matt was not only my primary Client Contact, but also my culinary cruise director, expertly piloting me through the most amazing gastronomic safari. Let us begin this week-long travel log.

“If you aren’t thinking about food, you’re just not concentrating!” (Anthony Bourdain)

The Movable Feast ~ Monday Day 1: (Maple Grove, MN)

To start, Erik Silvola, another fine GRE Environmental Professional, really knows his way around all sorts of game cookery. He’s truly and avid sportsman and an expert in the precise and delicate art of smoking fish; his knowledge about the various techniques, seasoning and brining, use of aromatics, etc. is huge (hey, we’re talking about a Finlander who knows how to build real saunas for Pete’s sake). We began our meeting with the most delightful nosh of salmon (taken by Erik from the Kenai River in south-central Alaska), accompanied by carefully selected crackers, artisan cream cheeses, etc. He lamented the use of Chardonnay over the Sauvignon Blanc in the brining preparation and moisture infusion during the smoking process (a chef is never satisfied!). Breakfast salmon was available all week long! I have the most wonderful job in the world.

Kabobs (Maple Grove, MN) ~ I was numb with anticipation until at last we arrived at the most splendid of buffet tables. The food glistened with oils and spices; aromas permeated everything. How utterly thoughtful of Matt to suggest this first insertion point; he is devilishly clever, thinking that he could soften my expectations of things to follow by blowing my mind with this first salvo. It was so very good; I hated myself in the moment. Everything was superb: papadums, dosay, curried goat, reshmi chicken, tandoori minced lamb seek kabab, dals, naan, etc. The buffet was preferable to ordering from the menu ~ why you ask? It is very simple: lots of choices to sample, and unlimited refills; there is no disappointment, only bliss. I enjoy Indian cuisine whenever and wherever I can, and this place is top quartile in terms of freshness, taste and authenticity. I must say that the highlight for me was the goat – terrific! Kabobs is certainly not to be missed. The little place is compact but charming and very clean. You must go there!

The Movable Feast ~ Tuesday Day 2: (Maple Grove and Rogers, MN)

Next up: The Rib Cage (Rogers, MN). Now, I travel all over the USA, and BBQ is a prevalent feature to be found almost everywhere, with the exception of those few hallowed grounds wherein the technique has been perfected to an absolute art form. This particular locale is something quite special: good BBQ…from a trailer…in a parking lot…next to a mobile home park… You can't make this stuff up! This joint is a temple of BBQ consumption: everything that is so wrong, yet so real (however, I am told that this particular day was not quite up to standard in that the pork, beef and smoked chicken breast were just a tad on the dry side; I suppose it makes a difference if “Dad” is at the helm rather than the Sous Chef). It is all very simple, basic, and enjoyable. We sampled everything. They use cherry wood in the smoker and the ribs were really very good, as was the bratwurst. The pork, beef and chicken were also tasty, and the addition of a little sauce was helpful; speaking of sauces: one mild and one spicy; both are laced with a subtle cherry flavor to lift up the smokiness imparted by the cherry wood. Matt has pioneered “rib cost averaging” which goes something like this: quarter rack with sides $8.50 v. half rack with sides $10.50 (sides can be factored out, as one does not allocate prime stomach space to incidentals like beans and slaw anyway); double your rib count for a $2.00 investment! Good thing the Rib Cage hasn’t stumbled on this tidbit. The line between work and pleasure is now blurred… how nice, yet we should not become too invested in that sentiment!

The Movable Feast ~ Wednesday Day 3: (Champlin, MN)

Buona Sera Ristorante & Wine Bar (Champlin, MN) ~ Dinner with Matt and his lovely wife Gina. The Owner has taken great care to transport us to a little slice of Italy (to be more precise, Calabria). The restaurant has been expanded for more seating, and the addition of beautifully hand-painted murals, and a few window-wall plasma TVs that run videos of stunning Italian scenery, add real warmth and coziness. Al fresco dining can be enjoyed outside in a nicely landscaped terrace; herb and vegetable gardens just reinforce the dimension of being someplace special.

The Bruschetta was authentic with a nice touch of good olive oil; so too were the prawns lightly dusted with fine herbed breadcrumbs then fried and served with a tasty chipotle mayonnaise sauce (chipotle is not really Italian I suppose, but I’m not complaining).

The Sea Food Chowder was creamy and ample.

The salads came with our choice of dressing; the greens cool and crisp and everything fresh. The house balsamic vinaigrette was wonderful.

For dinner, Matt had one of the specials, Steak Cacciatore. This was a nice NY Strip, perfectly cooked to his liking nested in a rustic sauce of capers, artichokes, kalamata olives, etc. I sampled a thin slice and was in full agreement with Matt with regard to the detail and execution of the dish. Gina had a Penne Carbonata in a cream sauce; we were all amazed at her ability to work through that family-style serving! I had the Veal Marsala and was quite pleased with the generous servings of perfectly prepared veal and a very nice wine-reduction crème sauce, with plenty of mushrooms. Matt and I were also served our selection of penne in a marinara sauce as a side, among the several offered.

The desserts were quite remarkable: excellent home-made apricot gelato (about the very best gelato I have ever had!) Several other flavors were also available) and a wonderfully composed vanilla bean Crème Brule! The espresso was the final touch to a great diner.

Matt can’t just let me be. He keeps reeling me in, no rest, and no opportunity for recovery time; I’m almost done in… In a food induced miasma, I went to brush something off of my cheek ~ a fly? Nope, it was the table.

The Movable Feast ~ Wednesday Day 3: (Grand Marais MN)

"Located on the scenic North Shore of Lake Superior in the town of Grand Marais, Minnesota, the Angry Trout Cafe is a small indoor/outdoor restaurant cobbled together out of an old commercial fishing shanty that clings to the edge of Grand Marais Harbor. From this beautiful setting we offer a menu based on the bounty of Lake Superior and the surrounding region – locally-grown produce, hand-harvested wild rice, and of course, our specialty, fresh Lake Superior fish." Can you just imagine how wonderful this is?

The Angry Trout Café ~ The shores of Lake Superior just cannot be described in words ~ such beauty. Grand Marias lies at the tip of Arrowhead County, abounding with small-town charm. Hey, the water here is cold with an average mean temperature of 38 degrees – no algae flourishes and you can see through a fathom of water! The Angry Trout is also home of a fabulous smoker hut and the Dockside meat market/deli/souvenir shop (very nice smoked fish tasting station: the smoked trout with a dab of ancho chili/maple sauce and a nice cracker was excellent). Erik had the Tom & Harley’s Classic Grand Marais Fish Burger (fried herring). The whitefish chowder was outstanding, loaded with fish, potatoes and vegetables. Several others ordered smoked trout salads, or wild rice salads that included an array of fresh picked berries and even edible flowers. The Fish & Chips were very tasty, and the home-made dill tartar sauce was perfect Our Waitress provided an assortment of dressings and sauces. They make all of their own soda, and I heard no one complain. Locally harvested fish and produce are the hallmark of this quaint little place.

As an aside, we plummeted through deep space as our little corporate jet bounced off of the tornado clouds, sodas flying, people praying, as we returned from Grand Marais to the Anoka Airfield. We thought we were safe until we got in the car, raising 20' rooster tails as we drove back to Maple Grove. Whew...

Kelly's Bar & Restauraunt - Transformed!

Kelly's has always been (and under various ownerships and names) a very nice neighborhood spot to watch sports, hang out with friends after a long work week, eat wings and burgers, and generally just have some fun. I am way behind on this particular topic, because this place has transformed into something quite special: always thought of Kelly's as what I have described above, never as a destination spot for dinner ~ but I do now! The menu has been seriously re-invented, with offerings one would not expect to find in such a setting. They have introduced a number of "small plates" to broaden their appeal to those who desire something beyond traditional appetizer fare, you know, chicken wings and such. Oh by the way, chicken wings? These have been redesigned as well to include Caribbean and Asian flavors ~ very nice! The Wam Bam Shrimp is an exceptional starter, with a nice crunch, served nestled among a bed of mixed greens. My favorite small plate is the Thai Beef Noodle Bowl, also an exceptional composition of herbs, fresh bean sprouts, sauteed veggies, egg noodles and nice tender beef shavings in a tangy sauce. (Pictures of each are at the top). The Owners and Staff have taken, and continue to take, great care in their campaign to deliver culinary excitement amid a sea of drab, predictable, tired and often overpriced competition. I am very enthused about what is happening at Kelly's. Do not miss this opportunity! [Kelly's is located at: 5076 Velasko Rd, Syracuse, NY13215]

The Very Best Steamed Crabs!

I've written a little bit on steamed clams (oh! so delicious); so today, I decided that a little refresher on snow crab would be fun. Steaming is preferred to boiling. When you boil, the crab will release most of its delicate flavor to the water bath; whereas steaming locks it in. Very simple. There are myriad ways to to this, but because large snow crab clusters can be found in most groceries at a very reasonable price (unlike Alaskan King Crab), you can experiment to your heart's content.

Ingredients:

• 5 lbs flash frozen snow crab clusters (do not thaw)


• 2 bottles of a nice, robust ale (the choice is yours - but do not use a light lager)


• 1 cup white wine (of course, something you would drink)


• a handful of chives and parsley


• 1 onion quartered; 2-3 stalks celery chopped


• 2 bay leaves


• 1 quarter cup vinegar (I like rice vinegar)


• salt and fresh ground pepper


• Old Bay Seasoning

Method:

• place all ingredients, except crab and Old Bay into a very large pot (you may have to trim the crab to fit if you steamer is not large enough)


• bring to a nice simmer with cover ajar for about 10-15 minutes to let the flavors blend


• meanwhile, rinse the crab clusters in cold water to remove any heavy ice build-up, place on a platter and sprinkle liberally with Old Bay


• turn up the temperature to high to get a good boil going, set crab into the steamer basket, cover the pot


• steam for 4-6 minutes until the crab is nicely heated through

Serve with melted butter (I prefer not, because the crab has such a wonderful flavor is its own right, but some people insist upon it). A nice potato salad and cole slaw goes very well with this. Of course, cold beer is essential (if you use the same kind as you did in the steamer, you'll notice that the flavors lift up nicely).

Now - what to do with the leftover crab? I make crab cakes and my Wife makes a killer chilled crab dip. Crab Cakes:

Ingredients:

• for a 5 lb batch of snow crab for three people - you will have about 1 lbs of leftover crab meat- perfect (pick through to remove any shell fragments
• 1 cup Panko breadcrumbs, plus extra for coating the cakes
• 1 tsb Coleman's Dry Mustard
• 1 beaten egg
• 1 tbs chopped cilantro or parsley
• enough mayonnaise to moisten everything up (about a quarter cup or more)
• 1 eighth - 1 quarter tsp cayenne pepper
• salt and pepper to taste

Method:

• combine everything except extra Panko; mix well but do not over work it
• roll into balls, and flatten with palms
• dust surfaces with remaining Panko
• heat peanut or vegetable oil and saute until nice and golden brown on both sides
• drain on wire rack and keep warm in 180 degree oven until ready to eat

Serve with a nice remoulade or tarter saute!

Its all about the Nectar! Steamed Clams

Well, who does not like steamed clams? They come in so many varieties (about 2000 species to be precise!) allocated among the two types: hard and soft shell: Quahog, Littlenecks, Cherrystone, Longnecks, Razor (one of my favorite), Manila, etc. There are, of course, many ways to prepare them such as steaming or grilling. Here's a great recipe that emphasizes the steaming media (nectar):

Ingredients:

3 dozen hard shell clams (Littlenecks are just fine!)

1.5 cups water

1 cup of a good dry sherry

one-third cup of a good extra virgin olive oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 inch fresh ginger, left whole but peeled

1 handful clilantro, chopped

1 onion, diced

2-3 ribs celery, chopped

Sea salt and black pepper to taste

Method:

Scrub clams and rinse under cold water, discard any that do not close when the shell is tapped.

Fill a large pot with the all ingredients, except the clams, heat to a simmer for about 10 minutes to allow flavors to blend, then turn up to high and bring to a boil.

Place clams into a steaming rack and set into the pot.

Cover pot, turn heat down to low and steam for about 6-8 minutes or until clams open; discard any that do not open.

Put clams into a nice serving bowl and ladle the nectar into mugs for dipping and drinking; plenty of good crusty bread is great for sopping up those juices.

Serve with ice cold beer!

Spring Roll Fantastic

I am locally famous for my delicious spring rolls - so I thought I would publish the recipe for those who might wish to try making them at home! Makes 25.

Ingredients:

• Wei Chuan Spring Roll Wrappers (essential - do not use any other variety): use immediately after thawing
• 1 Block extra firm Tofu: wrap in paper towels, weight down, repeat to remove excess moisture; then dice
• 12 Chinese Black Mushrooms: soak in hot water 15 minutes, drain, wring out in paper towels to remove excess moisture and shred into fine strips
• 2 bundles thin bean thread noodles: soak in hot water,for 15 minutes, drain, dry with paper towels, and chop coarsely
• 1-2 carrots: finely shredded, wrap in paper towels and squeeze out excess moisture
• 2-3 scallions minced
• 1-2 inches grated ginger
• 3 tbs Nam Pla: "3 Crab Brand" is best (Thai Fish Sauce)
• 1 tsp white pepper

Method

• Place all ingredients in a non-reactive bowl and mix well until combined;
• Place about 1 heaping tbs into lower corner of wrapper, moisten upper corner, fold up once, fold in sides and wrap to complete; set seam side down on parchment paper; complete remaining spring rolls;
• Fry in peanut oil ( you will need 4, 32 oz. bottles for a home deep fryer; you can use less in a good pot) at 360 degrees for about 4-6 minutes until golden; drain on wire rack and keep warm in 180 degree oven until all complete and ready to serve.

Serve with favorite dipping sauce (I like duck sauce mixed with chili garlic sauce (Tuong Ot Tio Viet Nam); soy/sugar/rice vinegar sauce, hot mustard, etc.)

Note: let peanut oil cool; strain through cheese cloth or a fine meshed sieve; pour into plastic jug and place in refrigerator. The oil can be reused about 6-8 times for this recipe; of course, if you are frying chicken wings, shrimp, etc., you can reuse the oil only about 3 times.

Note: You can make excellent fried wonton strips, but use the regular wonton skins to do so; just cut into 1/2 inch strips and deep fry for a couple of minutes until nice and golden; remove with a slotted spoon, place on a towel and sprinkle on a little Chinese Pepper Salt (1 tbs Szechuan peppercorns, 2 tbs salt and 1/8 tsp Chinese Five-Spice Powder: dry roast peppercorns for about 1 minute - shake constantly, let cool and add salt and Five-Spice Powder ~ place into a spice grinder and there you go!).

Sonoran Hot Dog Diggety

Every place has its signature food stuff: Chicago Hot Dog and Deep Dish Pizza; NYC Deli Sandwiches and Neapolitan Pizzas; Minnesota - anything served on a stick and the Bloody Mary Wars (they just can't put enough stuff into a Bloody Mary, for example: shrimp, Polish Sausage link, celery, hard boiled egg, carrot stick, beef jerky - all at once mind you, with a beer chaser to boot! I should do a blog just on Minnesota); Southern Fried Chicken, Texas BBQ, and so on. Well, I was in Tucson recently and had a great stay at the Las Brisas near the airport. The Hotel food was just fine, but I asked the Reservation Desk about escabeche and such, and was advised that the Sonoran Hot Dog was exceptionally unique. Well, let us proceed forthwith!

Let me explain this tasty roadside treat (and anyone from Chicago, please take note, as if you can't get enough fat charged goodness!).

The hot dog is wrapped in bacon (yes, the addition of bacon improves anything) and grilled. It is then nestled into a soft torta-bread like bun, and the following items are applied: beans, tomato, onion, mustard, mayo, salsa verde, and occasionally avocado and/or guacamole. It is absolutely fabulous and I could eat them all day long

So, grab onto a cactus, add an ice cold Dos Equis, and pop a couple of these little darlins' into your mouth ~ napkins are optional!

The Gingerbread Cafe ~ Nice & Tasty

'Just hangin' out wit a few friends! Dats de way we do it, nice and tasty, cool and refreshing, like dew in de mornin' ~ yeah, dat is soooo relaxin'

That's me on the end with a couple of my best buddies, Pete and Alan and left again with another best buddie, John. While the wives were taking a beach stroll, the boys stopped into our favorite little spot in St. Maarten; our second visit! This little hut sits over the water and has a splendid view of the ocean, the Divi Resort, and Saba Island. The open air configuration lets the warm breezes waft about the interior. The Gingerbread Cafe is located at the Belair Beach Hotel in Phillipsburg. The staff is so very friendly and the food is wonderful. Each week they also have two themed evening parties with live music and dancing: Caribbean lobster night and a full barbecue (one of the best ever!). The BBQ had ribs, chicken, shrimp, with all the fixins'; the lobsters were huge and grilled to perfection ~ I think Alan and I had two apiece, and washed them down with plenty of Carib and Presidente lagers. The Gingerbread also has a great breakfast and lunch (they will pack you a cooler of food and beer to take to the beach too!).

Before "Feelin' da Meal" - you have to have a special little libation: "Duane's Revenge", invented by John (photo on left) ~ and Duane, the bartender, was all over it! In goes the guavaberry, mango rum, some fruit juice, a little grenadine and ice ~blend well and float some Rum Jumbie on the top. This will tune you right up!

They make the most delicious Conch Fritters you've every had; very tender with a dipping sauce so sublime I still can't quite reproduce it precisely. We could not get enough of it and even slathered it on our burgers. For a little hotel beach hut, the Gingerbread Cafe is charming and loads of fun. Everything is wonderful and very reasonably priced. Even guests from the Divi next door eventually wind up at this eatery! So, de next time you happen to be in St. Maarten, please drop in for a nice Duane's Revenge and a bite to nibble.

Trader Dick's at the Nugget! Reno!

After having dropped a bundle at the casino gaming tables, I was ravenous. I looked up from the slot machine and saw the ocean. I thought for a moment that I was underwater! How could I have gotten underwater? Oh, it is a place to eat and I do not need scuba gear; thank God I have a few dollars left. Trader Dick's is an absolutely tropical fun food adventure, brought to you direct from the John Ascuagas Nugget where the restaurant is located. A huge aquarium spans the entire length of the Tiki Bar, and is exceptionally well-stocked with a variety of coral reef fish, and maintained in pristine condition. There is also a glass enclosed tiki hut that houses a huge clay roasting oven, that is sometimes used for special events. I bet you could slow roast three or four full grown hogs in this thing that looks like an big beige igloo!

Now to "Feel the Meal"!

Island Drinks come in all sizes and flavors and served in what you would expect in a place like this: try the "Shark's Tooth" with Purple Label Rum (151 proof) for a really tasty spanking, or the more traditional "Zombie", "Mai Tai" and "Scorpion". After a few of these, you'll be underwater too! and just ready for some appetizers!

After writing a small blog tid bit about the Pupu Platter, it just so happens that the Trader Dick's Sampler for Two does the trick! (Only, for me, it's for one!): Tempura Prawn (truly jumbo shrimp, perfectly prepared); Tahitian Ribs (slow cooked, nicely glazed and very tender); Potstickers (traditional); Chicken Satay; and Thai Egg Rolls! This sampler is served with an array of dipping sauces. I could eat this every day!

Next comes the Won Ton Noodle Soup: this is not a dainty portion, but a meal in itself: pork filled wontons, noodles, chicken, shrimp, snow peas, water chestnuts, and on and on...

Soft Shell Crabs! Are you kidding me? These were perfectly fried, light and airy and placed on a bed of shredded greens napped with, what could be termed, about the best scallion sauce I have every tasted. I could have easily consumed a dozen shots of the dressing alone!

Singapore Noodles (aka Singapore Mei Fun, or Singapore Chow Mei Fun): I absolutely love this dish as anyone that knows me can attest. A nice curried fine rice vermicelli, with chicken, char sui, veggies, shrimp, etc. Simply fantastic.

The full menu is extensive with some very creative offerings, e.g., Mongolian Lamb Chops, Prawns with Honey Glazed Walnuts and Pacific Rim Surf and Turf. There is nothing on this menu that I would not love to try. Find Trader Dick's the next time you're in Reno and visit them at the Nugget website too!

Brand ~ A Rare Steakhouse Well Done?

I had the pleasure of dining at Monte Carlo's Brand last week in Las Vegas. Their sound bite is: "Brand's menu is rich with imaginative interpretations of classic steakhouse favorites, featuring big, bold one-of-a-kind chops and extensive wine list." Well, that all may be true - here is my take:

There is no doubt that the decor is classy, with a section devoted to cocktails and conversation, along with the main dining area. Guests can also eat in the lounge. I saw gargantuan lobsters and steaks streaming out of the kitchen to be eagerly devoured by expectant diners. The staff was courteous, though not always attentive. My Waiter was not well versed on the French technique of sous vide, basically food cooked in a vacuum sealed bag in a water bath of precisely controlled temperature. Interesting, because my side dish was a sous vide of vegetables.

My meal consisted of: (1) chilled shell fish appetizer (oyster, two shelled shrimp, split petite lobster tail in shell, and king crab leg section (small), accompanied by: minionette, cocktail sauce and grated horse raddish. My table lacked salt and pepper (although one staff brought over a huge grinder and showered my food with pepper - like an ash fall from Etna); (2) an authentic Japanese Kobe 5 oz. steak with the vegetable sous vide (the medley included asparagus tips, mushrooms, a few root vegetables in a nice cream sauce, paired with Parmesan crisps impregnated with truffle flakes). Brand also serves American Kobe in various forms, including a carpaccio appetizer. It was the cold shellfish starter listed in the entrance display menu that lured me into Brand.

Review: (1) the oyster (one) was wonderful (I should have ordered a plateful of these and omitted the rest); the shrimps were ok, but not memorable; the lobster was over cooked an tasteless and the crab was still frozen. At this point - no Waiter within ear or eye shot - so, the crab had to thaw until ready to eat. (2) the Kobe was excellent and worth every penny (Yen, I mean), and with the exception of the under cooked root vegetables, the sous vide was very good, particularly the cheese crisps. I thought it a bit odd though when my Waiter placed a steak knife at the side of my plate, when Japanese Kobe can be eaten with a spoon - must be force of habit!

All in all, not bad. The owners need to be a bit more attentive to the little details that distinguish the exceptional restaurant.

The Monte Carol also houses Andre's French Restaurant (one Michelin Star and 5 Diamonds) - I should have eaten there. Brand has potential and will, no doubt, evolve into a remarkable place to dine.

The Pupu Platter

The Pupu Platter (Flickr photo) is a wonderfully composed contrivance of tasty tidbits. Legend has it that the Pupu was twirled up by a Cantonese chef at Don the Beachcomber in the mid 1930's for customers to enjoy with exotic drinks of the time. The Pupu has endured because of its alluring reminiscence of the south sea islands. Typically, the Pupu is comprised of fried chicken wings, crab rangoon (wonton skins filled with cream cheese and crabmeat), rumaki (again, an invented dish of bacon wrapped chicken livers and water chestnuts), thin slices of barbecued pork (aka char sui ~ very Chinese), glazed spareribs, egg rolls, and sometimes beef satay that customers could grill at the table. Now, there's an interesting combo ~ let's place fiery hot charcoal embers or a can of live lit Sterno in front of someone who has imbibed about 6 mai tais, and watch the fun! The "p" in Pupu sometimes stands for Pyrotechnics. Actually, Pupu or little bites in Hawaiian is similar to the Chinese translation of Dim Sum. This whole arrangement is fanned out on a wooden dish or plate with a nice saucer of hot mustard in the center.

I love the Pupu, while many sneer with contemptuous disgust. It is simple pleasure that takes me to a time and place of palm trees, white sand beaches, the scent of flowers in the ocean breeze and azure waters. The array of flavors, textures and aromas is captivating, particularly when nestled among fish nets, Tiki statues, torches and dried bloated puffer fish suspended from the ceiling.

Breakfast Commentary

Well, you see them everywhere, but primarily in queue awaiting the certainty of a sublime narcosis induced by amounts of food so vast that any expectation of quality is irrelevant. What is it that has attracted such legions of professional buffet goers? And, they continue to spawn generations of devotees. How did things devolve to such a state?

I have a theory that is co-mingled with the same ingredients that gave rise to this slothful herd of grazers, as with those forces that also created the culture of entitlement! For the love of God, how many breakfast platters, strewn with fields of a disgusting mush of potatoes, diced peppers, well beyond their productive lives, infested with mismanaged rashers of bacon, or worse yet "facsimile" of sausage, overly faux buttered toast points, and no less than 6 extra large eggs (cooked to your preference) can be consumed, or worse yet, enjoyed. Everything about this meal is horrid. I am not sure, but many top chefs have been said to judge the career potential of a new intern by their ability to prepare a simple scrambled egg. Yet many of these "value" restaurants breed a staff of line cooks that can neither scramble, poach, nor fry an egg without out ruining its intrinsic characteristic.

There is hope: I plead with you to take notice of the varying breakfasts enjoyed by millions of people: inexpensive, highly nutritious, satisfying, and easy to prepare:

China: Gee Ha Wot Mein - wonton noodles (simmer skins cut into strips in boiling water for a few minutes, drain) and top with oyster sauce, light soy sauce, sesame oil, sesame seeds and a little chile garlic paste

India: idlis and dosas with tea and milk, often with samosas (wow! you could have mimosas with this too! - not Indian but the orange juice and champagne concoction has an appealing symmetry!)

Switzerland: muesli - grains with nuts, and yogurt

Mexico: huevos rancheros..... and so on.

Yet many of you still cringe at the thought of departure from mainstream breakfast fare. You know who you are, and do care one whit what people in Tibet or the Maldives have for their morning meal. (You are neither compelled to go blog surfing to find the perfect breakfast alternative).

So, have some fun, do a little research, and for some special occasion, please depart from the same old boring, lackluster breakfast. (Yes, I too, but infrequently, enjoy the elusive, expertly crafted homemade biscuit with sausage gravy, but I can assure you that it is not prepared by that ilk that slings up the breakfast platter spectacular!)