Showing posts with label Restaurant Review. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Restaurant Review. Show all posts

Thursday, February 24, 2011

THE pod ~ EXTRAORDINARY!


The POD (but actually “pod” so you can read it upside down as you have your second Martini! Oh yes, they have quite an extensive repertoire of them!). This place is truly one of a kind. Adjacent to the Inn at Penn (3636 Sansom St. Philadelphia), nestled in the University of Pennsylvania campus area, and it is where I eat, every night I’m there. Oh, there are plenty of great restaurants in the City, and sure I’ve been to dozens of them, but you really have to visit the pod to get the whole picture. Manager Greg Root (who by the way is a direct descendent of Elihu Root, who won the Noble Prize, and was Secretary of War and also of named Secretary of State in 1905; he attended Hamilton College in Clinton, NY and Root’s Glen is named for the family. Elihu’s Dad was a Professor of Mathematics there), and the rest of the staff are amazingly hospitable, friendly, and go out of their way to make everyone welcome. Sarah, Rose and Tom are outstanding Bartenders and I am always stunned by their ability to handle a full bar solo! The visual impact is exciting, and reminds me of the space shuttle scene in 2001 Space Odyssey, with the reddish over-stuffed foamy/acrylic furniture, back-lit bar, cozy nooks and crannies everywhere, well-placed semi-private and private dining areas, closed-circuit TV (some smallish and sprinkled in the most unlikely places, and a big one in the lower sushi conveyor bar – more on that later; typical TV fare includes Jetsons Cartoons, old SCI-FI films, anime and 2001 of course), sunken dining area and spacious upper bar. The rest rooms are an adventure unto themselves; little vertically cylindrical pods, separated by soft neon back-lit panels, with music piped in; they remind me of something you’d expect in a space shuttle! The Facility hosts frequent events, including recruiting sessions for Wharton MBA candidates and prospective top tier consulting firms, University Faculty, and other groups.

The cuisine speaks to me for sure; a very interesting blend of Asian Fusion, Japanese, Chinese, etc. with and extensive sushi and sashimi. The lower bar is a conveyor that transports an array of tempting treasures; just pick out what you want! How easy is that. My menu favorites include Duck Three Ways (and the Bao Bun stuffed with duck confit can be added to any dish), Asian Braised Beef Short Ribs, Crispy Chicken Wings, Pork Belly Buns (unbelievable!), Pork Dumplings, the Rock Shrimp, Rack of Lamb and many of the sushi, and the Lobster Roll in particular. Now pay attention: The hallmark of a great restaurant is its ability to customize – the pod’s culinaria is not so formulaic that adjustments cannot be made, and I consider this, yet just another indication of excellence. I am also amazed by the younger patrons, students, no doubt, that can afford to eat here! When I was an undergrad, I could barely afford much more than a burger, but don’t get me wrong – the prices are exceedingly reasonable given the location.

So please make a note to visit the pod during your next visit to Philadelphia. You will be delighted!

Monday, May 10, 2010

Blarney Stone - Authentic Irish Pub


Ok, here we go again. I have been coming to Bismarck, ND for over 10 years now on business and just stumbled on this little gem. They only opened last October (that explains that), and are apparently getting some very good attention! To start with – I arrived on Sunday and as is typical in Bismarck, just about everything is closed…but even on Mother’s Day? The Radisson folks called every place I could think of – and although their restaurant opened at 4:00 pm – I wanted something else. The Shuttle driver said – “Hey – you need to go to the Blarney Stone!” Ok… He said it was just a block away and 4 doors down from Peacock Alley (also closed). Here’s the kicker: “Everyone I send over there has a great time –good beer, fun staff and just a nice spot to relax”. Ok, I’m in. People drive in from Mandan – so something has got to be right!

I am on my 1-hour power walk, with sweats, headphones and IPod – do I change? Naw – need to check out the Blarney. The place is just as you would expect in an Irish Pub replication. Dark woods, seems like hundreds of taps, traditional Irish music (the more popular stuff, not Gaelic, uilleann pipes, and all). Immediately, I am made to feel right at home by Shasta and Tim. We do a little demo on my Nokia Bluetooth headphones. Shasta really has a great sense of humor and heaps lots of abuse on Tim – but he is very good natured about it. Now I am getting hungry, but I am sans glasses – pay for my wine, back to hotel to retrieve them. They think I was scared off and that was it. So, I return (“Oh, you’re back?”) ready to delve into the menu. Not what I expected.

The menu has its typically pub fare – but also different items you would not expect: Irish Nachos, Mussels Malone, and Smoked Salmon Lox for starters; Sandwiches include: Smoked Sicilian and Honey Cashew Chicken, for example with a great array of burgers and specialty items like Guinness Irish Stew, Shepard’s Pie, Bangers and Mash and a Black & Tan Sirloin (at a very reasonable $16.99 – it is the priciest thing on the menu), along with a great selection of imports and artisan ales. You can even get Clamato Juice in your ale! I had some delicious wings and the Smoked Salmon (nice presentation and very tasty!).

Very nice Clientele – and a real mix of young and older folks too. Manager Kirsten is very proud of her business and I noticed plenty attention to detail and no one goofing off, except me. The staff is very convivial and fun (Amanda and Gabrielle, too).

On balance, the Blarney Stone delivers great food at modest prices, outstanding selection of beverages, and a very relaxing atmosphere (although, I’m sure it can get very hectic in there). For me, on that Sunday, it was the best! I need to go back there.

Slainte!

Ike's at MSP Airport - Wow!


Well – I have been asked to continue my blogs on airport dining – so then, here we go! Many people succumb to “first convenient spot available and miss many opportunities for really good eats!” Let me tell you about Ike’s!

Located at the MSP - that’s Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport. This is not your standard airport food fare. I have been eating there for years and the remarkable thing its not just about the quality and diversity of offerings, but also consistency of preparation and service and the most attentive and friendliest of staff! Ike’s is a jewel at MSP!

From the moment you enter, you are impressed with the ambiance. The acoustics facilitates business or intimate conversation; the lighting makes you warm and comfortable and table spacing is designed for relaxation at an unhurried pace.

I always get the iceberg lettuce, bacon, the blue cheese salad, the pork-filled pot stickers, and the shrimp cocktail (remarkable)! But, let us but let us not stop there! The menu is enriched with special small plates, classic American favorites (meaning gravy), as well as an array of interesting beef, seafood, sandwiches, salads, soups and just about everything including crab cakes! The staff is fantastic and makes you feel so special. I wish to thank Latira and Zaida for their attention to detail and just all around fun.

So, next time when at MSP– you know where to go!

Let’s face it – you don’t get quality on the cheap – if that’s what you’re after – why are you even reading this…I want, you want, a cascading waterfall of flavor, fun and good eats!

Thursday, February 11, 2010

My #1 Airport Restaurant Pick


You travel all of the time, spending countless dreadful hours groping through an endless sea of connections. And, yes, you do get an urge for a bite to eat now and then. But what a collection of dreadful places that airports everywhere seem to inflict upon the hapless wanderer. You are all painfully aware of the Food Court ~ at best it is a carnage of culinary misery that can only be ingested by the totally unaware whose insight is eclipsed by either a per diem or hunger so intense that all judgement instantly vaporizes. Yet a few sparse havens of delight are carefully nested here and there so as to tease you along your merry way. Where are they? Trial and error is ok, but here's a great tip for you. My very best favorite out of all of the airports I travel through, from Seattle to Dallas/Ft. Worth to Bismarck to LA to Tampa, to (to tedious to list)....is the Sky Asian Bistro in the Philadelphia International Airport. It can be found just a few steps into Concourse C. I so highly regard this little gem that I will actually shuttle there if located in another Terminal should time permit, just to dine! I would not necessarily elevate the Bistro to the level of a Cantonese Dim Sum House or a 3 Michelin Star sushi bar; however, you will find quite excellent Pan-Asian cuisine here at reasonable prices, although the beverage costs are a bit steep. Having said that, the sushi, hand rolls, sashimi are all excellent, as are the more traditional noodle bowls, soups and speciality items. The Kinki Chicken Wings are fantastic with the most provocative Polynesianesque sauce (mint, ginger and pickled cucumber), pan seared Ahi Tuna (Chinese spicing, wasabi and citrus dressing), and my all time favorite ~ the Black Dragon Roll with spicy salmon, eel, avocado, caviar and a drizzle of eel sauce. I drool just thing about it. come to think of it, the Red Dragon Roll is also quite tasty as well (salmon, yellow tail and tuna). The Service Staff is always polite and eager to please. February 9, 2010, the day they shut they shut down the airport while employees scrambled to get home, my Waitress, Lindsey made quite certain that everything I ordered was just right and promptly served. My wine glass never seemed to empty. So, for those of you who find yourself in the Philly airport - do stop in check it out - you will not be disappointed.

Saturday, August 22, 2009

The Movable Feast ~ Friday Day 5:

By now, my cholesterol levels lie beyond the limits of present measurability. I have taken on a unique skin tone, no doubt attributed to the natural sheen my coat has absorbed from fat.

318 Mill Café (Excelsior, MN): Matt found this little gem for our final lunch that was a convenient shot for me to the MSP airport. Greg Archer, another GRE Environmental Professional joined us. We began with two homemade pizzas: apple, bacon, gorgonzola and a Serrano ham, pear & chevre, accented with a spinach/balsamic reduction. The dough is made fresh daily. We generally don’t like to mix fruit with savory on pizzas, but the combination work very well. For my main lunch, I ordered the Cured Meat tray that included very generous portions of Serrano, sopressata, chorizo, conrnichons, kalamata olives, sautéed walnuts and baguette. Greg had a taco assortment, his favorite being the potato, chorizo, with queso fresco. Then there is Matt; his deliberations took quite a while ~ he must have reviewed their little menu 100 times, interspersing his reading with forays to inspect the dessert bar. He finally decided on a turkey, brie, apple sandwich slathered with honey/pecan butter. He then “taco cost averaged” his way into two nice ones: the chorizo potato and also shredded chicken. We were stuffed, but not Matt – he consumed a rather huge artisan cupcake in about three bites. I sweat just thinking about it! If you get a chance, you must go to the 318 Mill Café, it won’t disappoint!




Thanks!
At the end of the day, it is amazing how food can bring people of diverse interests together, and is this particular instance, to share the gluttonous bounty produced during this week-long harvest. Thanks to Erik for his home-smoked salmon, to Lloyd Brandt for the smoked salmon from Lowes, and a special thanks to Matt for all of the work he must have invested to bring this all together. He has already commenced preparations for my next visit. To preview: indigenous fresh Lake Superior fish boils; outdoor pizza oven cook your own, adventure; Thai submarine sandwiches (this I gotta experience) and Heaven knows what else is lurking behind that under-nourished noggin of his! Bon Appetite!
ps ~ Minnesota, who would have ever guessed!
pss ~ apologies for my incorrect assertion in a prior article that "anything on a stick" is a signature Minnesotan dish - only at the State Fair, where you can bet your last dollar that each year out performs the last in this regard.

The Movable Feast ~ Thursday Day 4: (Cambridge and Grandy, MN)

Breakfast: Smoked salmon this time from Lowes located in Two Harbors provided courtesy of Lloyd Brandt, NCT Foreman; brown sugar brined; medium to cold smoked…very nice, and I noticed that Erik agreed.

Brass Rail (Grandy, MN): Matt describes this as a tiny joint in Northern Minnesota, but one with the very best broasted chicken. It appears that Minnesota has its very own selection of “ethnic” foods; among them are: Northern Whitefish; Smoked Trout; Native Wild Rice; and of course, broasted chicken. Here’s the deal ~ broasted chicken is not fried chicken per se, but rather seasoned and floured chicken on the bone (no boneless breasts will do here!), deep fried in a controlled temperature pressure cooker; very tricky to pull off. With the right touch, the chicken emerges with the most excellent crispy tangy skin, and very moist delectable meat inside. If all of the preparations and execution are not precise, you wind up with grease-laden, over-cooked outside, and under-cooked red to the bone on the inside. This is why everyone celebrates when somebody gets it right! And, believe me, the Brass Rail gets it right! As you can see from the photos, there were no dainty portions of breast meat and they will assemble any chicken pieces that you like! Sides included toast and Cole Slaw; you have your potato option: waffle fries, broasted potatoes, tater tots, and so on. This is by far the very best chicken I have ever eaten – bar none, anywhere in the USA.



For your information, the Owner has constructed a mobile broasting rig: this means catering an on-premise broast-fest. Oh, yeah!

The Movable Feast ~ Monday Day 1: (Maple Grove, MN)


To start, Erik Silvola, another fine GRE Environmental Professional, really knows his way around all sorts of game cookery. He’s truly and avid sportsman and an expert in the precise and delicate art of smoking fish; his knowledge about the various techniques, seasoning and brining, use of aromatics, etc. is huge (hey, we’re talking about a Finlander who knows how to build real saunas for Pete’s sake). We began our meeting with the most delightful nosh of salmon (taken by Erik from the Kenai River in south-central Alaska), accompanied by carefully selected crackers, artisan cream cheeses, etc. He lamented the use of Chardonnay over the Sauvignon Blanc in the brining preparation and moisture infusion during the smoking process (a chef is never satisfied!). Breakfast salmon was available all week long! I have the most wonderful job in the world.


Kabobs (Maple Grove, MN) ~ I was numb with anticipation until at last we arrived at the most splendid of buffet tables. The food glistened with oils and spices; aromas permeated everything. How utterly thoughtful of Matt to suggest this first insertion point; he is devilishly clever, thinking that he could soften my expectations of things to follow by blowing my mind with this first salvo. It was so very good; I hated myself in the moment. Everything was superb: papadums, dosay, curried goat, reshmi chicken, tandoori minced lamb seek kabab, dals, naan, etc. The buffet was preferable to ordering from the menu ~ why you ask? It is very simple: lots of choices to sample, and unlimited refills; there is no disappointment, only bliss. I enjoy Indian cuisine whenever and wherever I can, and this place is top quartile in terms of freshness, taste and authenticity. I must say that the highlight for me was the goat – terrific! Kabobs is certainly not to be missed. The little place is compact but charming and very clean. You must go there!


The Movable Feast ~ Tuesday Day 2: (Maple Grove and Rogers, MN)

Next up: The Rib Cage (Rogers, MN). Now, I travel all over the USA, and BBQ is a prevalent feature to be found almost everywhere, with the exception of those few hallowed grounds wherein the technique has been perfected to an absolute art form. This particular locale is something quite special: good BBQ…from a trailer…in a parking lot…next to a mobile home park… You can't make this stuff up! This joint is a temple of BBQ consumption: everything that is so wrong, yet so real (however, I am told that this particular day was not quite up to standard in that the pork, beef and smoked chicken breast were just a tad on the dry side; I suppose it makes a difference if “Dad” is at the helm rather than the Sous Chef). It is all very simple, basic, and enjoyable. We sampled everything. They use cherry wood in the smoker and the ribs were really very good, as was the bratwurst. The pork, beef and chicken were also tasty, and the addition of a little sauce was helpful; speaking of sauces: one mild and one spicy; both are laced with a subtle cherry flavor to lift up the smokiness imparted by the cherry wood. Matt has pioneered “rib cost averaging” which goes something like this: quarter rack with sides $8.50 v. half rack with sides $10.50 (sides can be factored out, as one does not allocate prime stomach space to incidentals like beans and slaw anyway); double your rib count for a $2.00 investment! Good thing the Rib Cage hasn’t stumbled on this tidbit. The line between work and pleasure is now blurred… how nice, yet we should not become too invested in that sentiment!


The Movable Feast ~ Wednesday Day 3: (Champlin, MN)


Buona Sera Ristorante & Wine Bar (Champlin, MN) ~ Dinner with Matt and his lovely wife Gina. The Owner has taken great care to transport us to a little slice of Italy (to be more precise, Calabria). The restaurant has been expanded for more seating, and the addition of beautifully hand-painted murals, and a few window-wall plasma TVs that run videos of stunning Italian scenery, add real warmth and coziness. Al fresco dining can be enjoyed outside in a nicely landscaped terrace; herb and vegetable gardens just reinforce the dimension of being someplace special.

The Bruschetta was authentic with a nice touch of good olive oil; so too were the prawns lightly dusted with fine herbed breadcrumbs then fried and served with a tasty chipotle mayonnaise sauce (chipotle is not really Italian I suppose, but I’m not complaining).

The Sea Food Chowder was creamy and ample.

The salads came with our choice of dressing; the greens cool and crisp and everything fresh. The house balsamic vinaigrette was wonderful.

For dinner, Matt had one of the specials, Steak Cacciatore. This was a nice NY Strip, perfectly cooked to his liking nested in a rustic sauce of capers, artichokes, kalamata olives, etc. I sampled a thin slice and was in full agreement with Matt with regard to the detail and execution of the dish. Gina had a Penne Carbonata in a cream sauce; we were all amazed at her ability to work through that family-style serving! I had the Veal Marsala and was quite pleased with the generous servings of perfectly prepared veal and a very nice wine-reduction crème sauce, with plenty of mushrooms. Matt and I were also served our selection of penne in a marinara sauce as a side, among the several offered.

The desserts were quite remarkable: excellent home-made apricot gelato (about the very best gelato I have ever had!) Several other flavors were also available) and a wonderfully composed vanilla bean Crème Brule! The espresso was the final touch to a great diner.





Matt can’t just let me be. He keeps reeling me in, no rest, and no opportunity for recovery time; I’m almost done in… In a food induced miasma, I went to brush something off of my cheek ~ a fly? Nope, it was the table.

The Movable Feast ~ Wednesday Day 3: (Grand Marais MN)

"Located on the scenic North Shore of Lake Superior in the town of Grand Marais, Minnesota, the Angry Trout Cafe is a small indoor/outdoor restaurant cobbled together out of an old commercial fishing shanty that clings to the edge of Grand Marais Harbor. From this beautiful setting we offer a menu based on the bounty of Lake Superior and the surrounding region – locally-grown produce, hand-harvested wild rice, and of course, our specialty, fresh Lake Superior fish." Can you just imagine how wonderful this is?

The Angry Trout Café ~ The shores of Lake Superior just cannot be described in words ~ such beauty. Grand Marias lies at the tip of Arrowhead County, abounding with small-town charm. Hey, the water here is cold with an average mean temperature of 38 degrees – no algae flourishes and you can see through a fathom of water! The Angry Trout is also home of a fabulous smoker hut and the Dockside meat market/deli/souvenir shop (very nice smoked fish tasting station: the smoked trout with a dab of ancho chili/maple sauce and a nice cracker was excellent). Erik had the Tom & Harley’s Classic Grand Marais Fish Burger (fried herring). The whitefish chowder was outstanding, loaded with fish, potatoes and vegetables. Several others ordered smoked trout salads, or wild rice salads that included an array of fresh picked berries and even edible flowers. The Fish & Chips were very tasty, and the home-made dill tartar sauce was perfect Our Waitress provided an assortment of dressings and sauces. They make all of their own soda, and I heard no one complain. Locally harvested fish and produce are the hallmark of this quaint little place.



As an aside, we plummeted through deep space as our little corporate jet bounced off of the tornado clouds, sodas flying, people praying, as we returned from Grand Marais to the Anoka Airfield. We thought we were safe until we got in the car, raising 20' rooster tails as we drove back to Maple Grove. Whew...

Friday, July 31, 2009

Kelly's Bar & Restauraunt - Transformed!




Kelly's has always been (and under various ownerships and names) a very nice neighborhood spot to watch sports, hang out with friends after a long work week, eat wings and burgers, and generally just have some fun. I am way behind on this particular topic, because this place has transformed into something quite special: always thought of Kelly's as what I have described above, never as a destination spot for dinner ~ but I do now! The menu has been seriously re-invented, with offerings one would not expect to find in such a setting. They have introduced a number of "small plates" to broaden their appeal to those who desire something beyond traditional appetizer fare, you know, chicken wings and such. Oh by the way, chicken wings? These have been redesigned as well to include Caribbean and Asian flavors ~ very nice! The Wam Bam Shrimp is an exceptional starter, with a nice crunch, served nestled among a bed of mixed greens. My favorite small plate is the Thai Beef Noodle Bowl, also an exceptional composition of herbs, fresh bean sprouts, sauteed veggies, egg noodles and nice tender beef shavings in a tangy sauce. (Pictures of each are at the top). The Owners and Staff have taken, and continue to take, great care in their campaign to deliver culinary excitement amid a sea of drab, predictable, tired and often overpriced competition. I am very enthused about what is happening at Kelly's. Do not miss this opportunity! [Kelly's is located at: 5076 Velasko Rd, Syracuse, NY13215]

Monday, June 1, 2009

The Gingerbread Cafe ~ Nice & Tasty


'Just hangin' out wit a few friends! Dats de way we do it, nice and tasty, cool and refreshing, like dew in de mornin' ~ yeah, dat is soooo relaxin'

That's me on the end with a couple of my best buddies, Pete and Alan and left again with another best buddie, John. While the wives were taking a beach stroll, the boys stopped into our favorite little spot in St. Maarten; our second visit! This little hut sits over the water and has a splendid view of the ocean, the Divi Resort, and Saba Island. The open air configuration lets the warm breezes waft about the interior. The Gingerbread Cafe is located at the Belair Beach Hotel in Phillipsburg. The staff is so very friendly and the food is wonderful. Each week they also have two themed evening parties with live music and dancing: Caribbean lobster night and a full barbecue (one of the best ever!). The BBQ had ribs, chicken, shrimp, with all the fixins'; the lobsters were huge and grilled to perfection ~ I think Alan and I had two apiece, and washed them down with plenty of Carib and Presidente lagers. The Gingerbread also has a great breakfast and lunch (they will pack you a cooler of food and beer to take to the beach too!).

Before "Feelin' da Meal" - you have to have a special little libation: "Duane's Revenge", invented by John (photo on left) ~ and Duane, the bartender, was all over it! In goes the guavaberry, mango rum, some fruit juice, a little grenadine and ice ~blend well and float some Rum Jumbie on the top. This will tune you right up!

They make the most delicious Conch Fritters you've every had; very tender with a dipping sauce so sublime I still can't quite reproduce it precisely. We could not get enough of it and even slathered it on our burgers. For a little hotel beach hut, the Gingerbread Cafe is charming and loads of fun. Everything is wonderful and very reasonably priced. Even guests from the Divi next door eventually wind up at this eatery! So, de next time you happen to be in St. Maarten, please drop in for a nice Duane's Revenge and a bite to nibble.

Sunday, May 31, 2009

Trader Dick's at the Nugget! Reno!


After having dropped a bundle at the casino gaming tables, I was ravenous. I looked up from the slot machine and saw the ocean. I thought for a moment that I was underwater! How could I have gotten underwater? Oh, it is a place to eat and I do not need scuba gear; thank God I have a few dollars left. Trader Dick's is an absolutely tropical fun food adventure, brought to you direct from the John Ascuagas Nugget where the restaurant is located. A huge aquarium spans the entire length of the Tiki Bar, and is exceptionally well-stocked with a variety of coral reef fish, and maintained in pristine condition. There is also a glass enclosed tiki hut that houses a huge clay roasting oven, that is sometimes used for special events. I bet you could slow roast three or four full grown hogs in this thing that looks like an big beige igloo!
Now to "Feel the Meal"!

Island Drinks come in all sizes and flavors and served in what you would expect in a place like this: try the "Shark's Tooth" with Purple Label Rum (151 proof) for a really tasty spanking, or the more traditional "Zombie", "Mai Tai" and "Scorpion". After a few of these, you'll be underwater too! and just ready for some appetizers!

After writing a small blog tid bit about the Pupu Platter, it just so happens that the Trader Dick's Sampler for Two does the trick! (Only, for me, it's for one!): Tempura Prawn (truly jumbo shrimp, perfectly prepared); Tahitian Ribs (slow cooked, nicely glazed and very tender); Potstickers (traditional); Chicken Satay; and Thai Egg Rolls! This sampler is served with an array of dipping sauces. I could eat this every day!

Next comes the Won Ton Noodle Soup: this is not a dainty portion, but a meal in itself: pork filled wontons, noodles, chicken, shrimp, snow peas, water chestnuts, and on and on...
Soft Shell Crabs! Are you kidding me? These were perfectly fried, light and airy and placed on a bed of shredded greens napped with, what could be termed, about the best scallion sauce I have every tasted. I could have easily consumed a dozen shots of the dressing alone!

Singapore Noodles (aka Singapore Mei Fun, or Singapore Chow Mei Fun): I absolutely love this dish as anyone that knows me can attest. A nice curried fine rice vermicelli, with chicken, char sui, veggies, shrimp, etc. Simply fantastic.

The full menu is extensive with some very creative offerings, e.g., Mongolian Lamb Chops, Prawns with Honey Glazed Walnuts and Pacific Rim Surf and Turf. There is nothing on this menu that I would not love to try. Find Trader Dick's the next time you're in Reno and visit them at the Nugget website too!



Thursday, May 21, 2009

Brand ~ A Rare Steakhouse Well Done?


I had the pleasure of dining at Monte Carlo's Brand last week in Las Vegas. Their sound bite is: "Brand's menu is rich with imaginative interpretations of classic steakhouse favorites, featuring big, bold one-of-a-kind chops and extensive wine list." Well, that all may be true - here is my take:
There is no doubt that the decor is classy, with a section devoted to cocktails and conversation, along with the main dining area. Guests can also eat in the lounge. I saw gargantuan lobsters and steaks streaming out of the kitchen to be eagerly devoured by expectant diners. The staff was courteous, though not always attentive. My Waiter was not well versed on the French technique of sous vide, basically food cooked in a vacuum sealed bag in a water bath of precisely controlled temperature. Interesting, because my side dish was a sous vide of vegetables.

My meal consisted of: (1) chilled shell fish appetizer (oyster, two shelled shrimp, split petite lobster tail in shell, and king crab leg section (small), accompanied by: minionette, cocktail sauce and grated horse raddish. My table lacked salt and pepper (although one staff brought over a huge grinder and showered my food with pepper - like an ash fall from Etna); (2) an authentic Japanese Kobe 5 oz. steak with the vegetable sous vide (the medley included asparagus tips, mushrooms, a few root vegetables in a nice cream sauce, paired with Parmesan crisps impregnated with truffle flakes). Brand also serves American Kobe in various forms, including a carpaccio appetizer. It was the cold shellfish starter listed in the entrance display menu that lured me into Brand.

Review: (1) the oyster (one) was wonderful (I should have ordered a plateful of these and omitted the rest); the shrimps were ok, but not memorable; the lobster was over cooked an tasteless and the crab was still frozen. At this point - no Waiter within ear or eye shot - so, the crab had to thaw until ready to eat. (2) the Kobe was excellent and worth every penny (Yen, I mean), and with the exception of the under cooked root vegetables, the sous vide was very good, particularly the cheese crisps. I thought it a bit odd though when my Waiter placed a steak knife at the side of my plate, when Japanese Kobe can be eaten with a spoon - must be force of habit!

All in all, not bad. The owners need to be a bit more attentive to the little details that distinguish the exceptional restaurant.

The Monte Carol also houses Andre's French Restaurant (one Michelin Star and 5 Diamonds) - I should have eaten there. Brand has potential and will, no doubt, evolve into a remarkable place to dine.