Thursday, May 21, 2009

Brand ~ A Rare Steakhouse Well Done?


I had the pleasure of dining at Monte Carlo's Brand last week in Las Vegas. Their sound bite is: "Brand's menu is rich with imaginative interpretations of classic steakhouse favorites, featuring big, bold one-of-a-kind chops and extensive wine list." Well, that all may be true - here is my take:
There is no doubt that the decor is classy, with a section devoted to cocktails and conversation, along with the main dining area. Guests can also eat in the lounge. I saw gargantuan lobsters and steaks streaming out of the kitchen to be eagerly devoured by expectant diners. The staff was courteous, though not always attentive. My Waiter was not well versed on the French technique of sous vide, basically food cooked in a vacuum sealed bag in a water bath of precisely controlled temperature. Interesting, because my side dish was a sous vide of vegetables.

My meal consisted of: (1) chilled shell fish appetizer (oyster, two shelled shrimp, split petite lobster tail in shell, and king crab leg section (small), accompanied by: minionette, cocktail sauce and grated horse raddish. My table lacked salt and pepper (although one staff brought over a huge grinder and showered my food with pepper - like an ash fall from Etna); (2) an authentic Japanese Kobe 5 oz. steak with the vegetable sous vide (the medley included asparagus tips, mushrooms, a few root vegetables in a nice cream sauce, paired with Parmesan crisps impregnated with truffle flakes). Brand also serves American Kobe in various forms, including a carpaccio appetizer. It was the cold shellfish starter listed in the entrance display menu that lured me into Brand.

Review: (1) the oyster (one) was wonderful (I should have ordered a plateful of these and omitted the rest); the shrimps were ok, but not memorable; the lobster was over cooked an tasteless and the crab was still frozen. At this point - no Waiter within ear or eye shot - so, the crab had to thaw until ready to eat. (2) the Kobe was excellent and worth every penny (Yen, I mean), and with the exception of the under cooked root vegetables, the sous vide was very good, particularly the cheese crisps. I thought it a bit odd though when my Waiter placed a steak knife at the side of my plate, when Japanese Kobe can be eaten with a spoon - must be force of habit!

All in all, not bad. The owners need to be a bit more attentive to the little details that distinguish the exceptional restaurant.

The Monte Carol also houses Andre's French Restaurant (one Michelin Star and 5 Diamonds) - I should have eaten there. Brand has potential and will, no doubt, evolve into a remarkable place to dine.

4 comments:

  1. And don't forget the added benefit that this restaurant is inside a major casino. Tip for fellow beer snobs: After (and/or before) you eat at Brand, go check out the Brew House, also located inside the Monte Carlo. This is one of the few places I've found that stocks Arrogant Bastard ale.

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  2. Casino is a major plus - the Brew House carried a nice selction of high-end ales - but did not adverstise as such - also there is no ale-making on the premises. Arrogant Bastard ale work well for you!

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  3. Sounds like Brand is at least worth a visit. I think owners (and chefs) of many restaurants need to do a better job of ensuring that the wait staff out on the floor is as knowledgeable as they can be about what every word on the menu really means when referring to food preparations, cooking styles, or accompanying sides.

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  4. You are absolutely right! The wait staff is a valuable customer connection - they translate the menu into your expectations. If they do not do their jobs effectively ~ you do not benefit! Thank you for your comment.

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