Feel the Meal

CRAVING FRENCH FRIES ~ THESE ARE FANTASTIC WIHOUT THE DEEP FRY!

2011-03-05T13:17:00.000-08:00

Everyone loves French Fries ~ it is the perfect side for just about anything. But making them can be a real challenge, from selecting the right potato, the right amount of [which] oil and at what temperature, to double fry, seasonings, whatever. Why torture yourself. Here is my recipe for fool-proof oven fries that are fantastic.

The potato? Well some say russets are best, but really, I don’t care, whatever you have (you can even do this with sweet potatoes, but may have to wedge cut them). I peel them first, then slice them as long as possible into quarter or half inch section. What matters is to get them a uniform shape for even cooking. The lay them out without overlapping on paper towels and dry them off well with several changes of paper. They must be dry!

Preparation: Toss them into a bowl, and season well with salt and pepper (I like to use sea salt), rosemary and thyme (fresh or dried) as you like, or other of your own favorites spices (Old Bay is nice too!), and olive oil. Combine well, but do not let them sit for long or the salt will draw out moisture and dampen them again – have this done just before you put them in the oven.

Process: preheat oven to 400 degrees, preheat the oiled baking tray for 10 minutes on the middle rack, take the tray out of the oven and slide on the fries. Spread them out. The tray will sizzle a bit. Return to the oven and cook for 20-25 minutes; remove and flip over with a spatula, and cook for about another 20 minutes or until crisp to preference. Toss them into a bowl and eat ‘em. You could also add some parsley or cilantro, grated parmesan cheese, etc. at this point too!

Everyone loved these little darlings! So give them a try.

THE pod ~ EXTRAORDINARY!

2011-02-24T12:06:00.000-08:00

The POD (but actually “pod” so you can read it upside down as you have your second Martini! Oh yes, they have quite an extensive repertoire of them!). This place is truly one of a kind. Adjacent to the Inn at Penn (3636 Sansom St. Philadelphia), nestled in the University of Pennsylvania campus area, and it is where I eat, every night I’m there. Oh, there are plenty of great restaurants in the City, and sure I’ve been to dozens of them, but you really have to visit the pod to get the whole picture. Manager Greg Root (who by the way is a direct descendent of Elihu Root, who won the Noble Prize, and was Secretary of War and also of named Secretary of State in 1905; he attended Hamilton College in Clinton, NY and Root’s Glen is named for the family. Elihu’s Dad was a Professor of Mathematics there), and the rest of the staff are amazingly hospitable, friendly, and go out of their way to make everyone welcome. Sarah, Rose and Tom are outstanding Bartenders and I am always stunned by their ability to handle a full bar solo! The visual impact is exciting, and reminds me of the space shuttle scene in 2001 Space Odyssey, with the reddish over-stuffed foamy/acrylic furniture, back-lit bar, cozy nooks and crannies everywhere, well-placed semi-private and private dining areas, closed-circuit TV (some smallish and sprinkled in the most unlikely places, and a big one in the lower sushi conveyor bar – more on that later; typical TV fare includes Jetsons Cartoons, old SCI-FI films, anime and 2001 of course), sunken dining area and spacious upper bar. The rest rooms are an adventure unto themselves; little vertically cylindrical pods, separated by soft neon back-lit panels, with music piped in; they remind me of something you’d expect in a space shuttle! The Facility hosts frequent events, including recruiting sessions for Wharton MBA candidates and prospective top tier consulting firms, University Faculty, and other groups.

The cuisine speaks to me for sure; a very interesting blend of Asian Fusion, Japanese, Chinese, etc. with and extensive sushi and sashimi. The lower bar is a conveyor that transports an array of tempting treasures; just pick out what you want! How easy is that. My menu favorites include Duck Three Ways (and the Bao Bun stuffed with duck confit can be added to any dish), Asian Braised Beef Short Ribs, Crispy Chicken Wings, Pork Belly Buns (unbelievable!), Pork Dumplings, the Rock Shrimp, Rack of Lamb and many of the sushi, and the Lobster Roll in particular. Now pay attention: The hallmark of a great restaurant is its ability to customize – the pod’s culinaria is not so formulaic that adjustments cannot be made, and I consider this, yet just another indication of excellence. I am also amazed by the younger patrons, students, no doubt, that can afford to eat here! When I was an undergrad, I could barely afford much more than a burger, but don’t get me wrong – the prices are exceedingly reasonable given the location.

So please make a note to visit the pod during your next visit to Philadelphia. You will be delighted!

THE UNDISPUTED KING OF PUNJABI CUISINE ~ TANDOORI CHICKEN (BUT IN THE OVEN AT HOME)

2011-02-24T10:59:00.000-08:00

We’ve all pretty much enjoyed various versions of this exciting culinary delight. It never fails to disappoint. Those who “get it” will crave this dish forever. I have experimented with many versions using modified techniques for outdoor grilling as well as indoor oven roasting, along with various single and two-stage marinations, spanning 1 day to several. Tandoors are tall, clay ovens that are fired with charcoal, and shaped so as to concentrate the heat to a staggering inferno. Meats are marinated with the most devout loving care, exactingly cut, slit and then skewered before being plunged point first into the hell fires. Meanwhile, pointed rounds of naan are dabbed onto the sides, where they stick and cook to a bubbly, crusty outside, but a very soft and chewy interior. Chickens take only about 10 minutes, and emerge with some decorative charring, succulent, reddish-orange or even yellowish (depending on the marinade), and one simply can’t wait to being stripping off the meat with a bit of naan. Side dishes? Only if you must. Ice-cold beer is the ticket. So what have I learned? Follow along.

The chicken: I like to use whole smallish chicken, not big roasters; organic too if available. They must be left whole, skinned and slit very precisely. Holding the chicken legs pointing downward, each breast side is slit in three downward diagonals; the top of the thighs slit in three places lengthwise, then turn over and slit the backside each thigh along the bone. Each leg is also slit to the bone in three places – but do not start at the edge. Finally, make a cut at each knee joint and also where the wing joins the breast. Done! The bird is carved when done. Alternatively, you can cut into serving pieces and slit as described above.

First marinade: lime juice, a tsp or so of salt, two tsp of Kashmiri red chili powder and about a tablespoon of garlic-ginger paste. Rub well into the slits, and then let sit overnight in the fridge. The paste is made from 6 cloves garlic, 2-3 inches of ginger, ¼ cup water to aid blending, and I like to add 1 seeded hot green pepper. The chili powder will give the bird a nice red coloration without the use of food coloring. You can make it orange by adding some ground turmeric. Spices (about ¾ tsp each) can also be added: whole cardamom seeds, ground cinnamon, ground cloves, ground cumin, and ground bay leaf.

Second marinade: hung (or Greek style) yogurt, about 2 cups, 1 tsp chili powder, 2 tbs garlic-ginger paste, 1 tsp garam masala, tbs canola oil, salt to taste and a good squeeze of lime juice. Mix well and then rub into the chicken. Let sit overnight again (but no less than 4 hours).

Ok, its show time! Place your pizza stone in the middle rack of your over and preheat to highest setting (500 or 550, but actually 350-425 also works but takes longer, and doesn’t flash cook the chicken); however, I have also set the oven at 400 and used convection bake setting. ok if you don’t have a stone – but it helps radiate the heat. Shake off some of the excess marinade, and place on an upper rack on an oiled grate over a baking sheet lined with foil. Bake, turn once of you like, until crisp, slightly charred and done. This should take about 25 minutes. Let rest a bit and then cut into serving pieces. Place on a platter with lime wedges and thinly sliced red onion. Sprinkle with chat masala and cilantro leaves. Best with naan, and a rice or lentil dish if you like. This also works well on a charcoal grill; but in the winters where I live, grilling is not a preferred option. Namaste!

JAVELINA, TALLADEGA, VROOOMMM

2010-08-17T15:31:00.000-07:00

Why me? – for the love of God…

I’m taking my morning power walk in 110 degree dry-baked heat in Tucson, happily listening to my Stones playlist, picking up speed, looking at the mountains and the cactus, feelin’ just fine. Out of the corner of my eye, I see these shapes dash across 4 lanes of highway. I think American Werewolf in London – their hair was perfect, BUT, I’m in Arizona. Hold on, I squint to see them better, and all of a sudden, the lead thing juts out its forelegs, slams on the breaks and kicks up a nice little dust devil that begins to waft in my direction. He targets me with beady red, bloodshot eyes, scimitar, self-sharpening tusks, all gnarly and grotesque gleaming in the sunlight, making awful gut wrenching noises…I think – I don’t give a $%^*& what these are, I’m outta here. So you know about my power stride, but I can run like a Cheetah when necessary, and believe me, this was absolutely necessary, because the lead thing takes off like a bullet – proclaiming his intention with one loud snort that, of course, alerts the other two things, who then proceed to kick up their own little dust devils. Now all three are in hot pursuit. I am running like a mad man back towards the hotel, when all of a sudden, my knee decides it wants to go somewhere else, perhaps back home, I dunno. So I begin to limp my way with ever diminishing separation between me and that thing that wants to gnaw on my recalcitrant knee cap. I see an Enterprise Car Rental Place that has a chain link fence; I grab onto link after link with hope that I can increase my speed with carefully placed hand-over-hand maneuvers. When, out of the blue, this jalopy turns from a side street – all neon colored, with a thousand bobbly-headed toy doggies in the rear window, all decked out with ribbons and piñatas, turns in my fleeing direction. It down-shifts and at that precise moment backfires. This kaboom startles the three werewolves and they kick up three more dust devils and high-tail it into the mesquite. I stop, trying to calm my nerves and quiet my aching lungs, slapping my knee to behave itself, and thanking God that I never got close enough to smell those nasty animals. They were, of course, Javelinas – not often seen, but I shall always remember them. I love pork in all of its forms, except this one.

SHOPPING WITH FOOLS

2010-05-18T12:52:00.000-07:00

Now I don’t mean not to be nice and all, and it is not my intention to throw every idiot consumer under the bus, but let’s face it! IT IS JUST PLAIN WRONG. How do we know this? Just go to the grocery store and watch the madness.

Most of us probably do not have access to high-end food emporiums, like Wild Oats, Whole Foods, Wegmans, Dean Deluca, etc., nor do many know about great mail order sites like D'artagnan (oh, you must check this one out for sure!), or many of the great artisanal shops like Salumi in Seattle (Mario Batali’s Dad runs this). However, this is no excuse for being a Culinary Cretin. Here are sure-fire indicators – just peak inside my brain here for a moment:

§ Shopping cart is filled with every branded, sub-edible, chemical laden, fat encrusted, GHG charged liquid concoctions – you could not even syringe enough sugar through the twist off cap, or vacuum inject the 4000 grams of salt per serving needed for just the right balance - all sold under the guise of convenience to the morbidly obese;

§ These folks do not pay for their junk – we do, and then they get some grocery kid to load the heaping – yes plastic- bags into their Lexus SUV (oh yes, there is also a suspect handicapped sticker too), as they pole vault over to the nearest Burger King for breakfast;

§ Typical shopping lists includes stuff that is not made out of anything recognizable as a primary food ingredient – why bother when you can eat food additives instead of the real deal – much tastier and easier to prepare; one can never have to much fake cheesy chips; pre-cooked pork sausages made from saw dust and pig sweat; red dye #2 twizzle sticks (yes, need 5 bags of those for the ride home); every manner of TV dinner (sold as carefully engineered diet plans – and after a list of 100 or so chemicals, we find, 0.1% chicken extract); soda, soda, soda – 8 flavors – and better if you get the litre bottles so you are compelled to drink the whole thing or lose the fizz; shopper’s targeting computer vectors to the candy aisle – whoa! Better get another cart; and on it goes till we find that can of Dinty Moore and a tin of Vienna Sausages.

Where did we go wrong? I don’t care – but what I do care about is the fix! Here’s how we do it: IF YOU WANT TO SHOP IN THIS STORE – HERE ARE THE RULES – NO EXCEPTIONS [ouch – getting a bit Stalinesque are we?]:

§ You must have competed a basic course on nutrition and show proof positive (unless we have profiled you out of this requirement)

§ You must check in at the service desk for a briefing on reading labels (ditto)

§ You can’t buy a, b, c unless your body fat is x (ditto)

§ You must commit in writing to watch at least two episodes of any food show, preferably Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations (no cookbooks because you are probably to busy stuffing your face to read)

§ You must be able to push the cart through the store yourself (unless of course, there are issues)

§ You are not allowed to sample anything, unless it is a raw carrot

§ The following aisles are restricted (unless waived out) beer, candy, mass produced breads, fake cheese, fake meat, chips, dips and other snacks, cereals, etc. The complete list is posted throughout the store for your convenience, etc.

And finally, get off of your duff and learn how to make a few simple dishes that will allow you to expand your scant repertoire to create other things using minimal techniques, for example:

§ How to cut celery without shredding your finger (next try an onion – first think slices, then an dice, next a tomato sliced, then diced, and so on)

§ How to boil water – a real challenge, and then how to add a few ears of corn, how to shuck an ear of corn so you don’t choke on those nice wispy threads

§ How to open a can of good quality solid white tuna, and perhaps mix it with some chives, parsley, and a little mayo

§ How to make a descent omelet (without leaving half of it stuck to the bottom of the pan) which requires you to crack an egg properly and then whisk it!

§ How to roast a whole chicken so that it is evenly done at the same time

§ How to wash vegetables for a salad “Gee you mean you have to wash them first? What is a salad?”

§ How to make a basic soup - say how about you make a stock out of the chicken carcass you roasted?

§ How to make a simple peasant stew – say how about you make a stock out of the chicken carcass you roasted? Reserve, then sauté some vegetables in olive oil (how about the celery and onion you learned how to slice, maybe some garlic, carrots, leeks? Whatever you like), brown some chicken pieces in the same pan, then make a roux (what? – are you French?), then add some herbs – thyme, chervil, parsley, bay leaf, a couple of cups of white wine, add the reserved broth, and simmer for an hour or so, add some thin slices of mushrooms (you know how to slice things by now). There you go – you did it and it did not come out of a frozen foil carton.

It is interesting to note that the favorite meals of great chefs are largely composed of fresh ingredients, simply prepared; the last thing they want is something overly constructed, that is to say they want it simple: radishes with fresh butter and salt, the chicken stew above, roasted marrow bones, fresh made egg pasta with a light but flavorful dressing, basically the food that most the of poor have been eating for centuries. So how did we get from there to the frenzied grocery scenario I describe above? This is the fundamental issue that is so troubling. So many people have lost there way with the food the eat – just look around you. So, in your own small way, I challenge you to make a difference in the life of just one person. Give them the knowledge and the desire the best way you can. Feed them.

You think there is hope for these folks? I don’t…no one really cares.

Schell's Birdies, Bogies and Beers! New Ulm, MN!

2010-05-11T10:21:00.000-07:00

What I am about to tell you is so bizarre that it defies credulity. The set up:

We stopped in New Ulm Minnesota at the Holiday Inn (see blogs on Otto’s and the dessert that was inspired by smoked pork chops), for an overnight en route to Fairmount the next morning. The Schell’s Brewery sponsored “Birdies, Bogies and Beers” annual golf contest, broadcast live by KNUJ was on that night. This event takes place every Thursday over a month or so at different venues in New Ulm (refer to movie with Renee and Connick – not actually filmed there, though – but you will get the idea). I qualified as a finalist (1 of 4) in a crazy arcade-inspired vertical golf pinball contraption with a putter that only Robin Williams could describe – it was like Cirque de Soliel. I did not know I was on live radio and all I can say is that I am so ashamed about the abuse I heaped on the Radio EMCEE. A table of folks from New Ulm kept saying things like – “I really think he is from New York”. The place was packed and I am now “Chris from New York”.

Fast forward a couple of weeks: I am in the tee box on 4^th hole at the Eagle’s Nest Country Club, Myrtle Beach poised in my back swing and the cell phone rings (not just a brriinngggg – but more of a Forbidden Planet thing – Welcome to Altaire 4 Gentlemen)…it is KNUJ to confirm my spot in the final rounds on 4/29. I tell them I’ve been away from home for 3 weeks and have to leave for Reno for a week on 5/2 and so must decline. I get back to the resort and relate the conversation - everyone says “Chris, are you nuts - this is a once in a lifetime event – you have to go – in the gut of beer country Minnesota amid all of those smoked pork chops – you have to do this!” Everyone but my Wife – who thinks I am certifiable. Well anyway, I start looking through my perks – airfare, hotel, car, etc. I make the decision – I’m in. I am crazy. It is a bucket list item!

I have two great outings with my Great River Energy buddies in Maple Grove. The afternoon of 4/29 – I make the 1.5-hour drive to New Ulm. A bowling alley this time – The Kegel Club! It is packed with people, and all of the locals that were at the Holiday Inn event remembered me. Immediately the KNUJ broadcaster says: “We’re so glad you made it – it you could not, we had it all figured out – we would do a live phone interview with you with the Owner of the Brewery with 3 people selected as your proxy for you to choose. So, since you are here – let’s have a personal interview right now.” So I did – it was a blast.

Ok – here we go! The qualifier is designed to winnow the 50 or so contestants down to the top 15, with the same set-up as the Holiday Inn. First off – some fellow with a military bearing comes over and gets me in a conversational headlock for 20 minutes. “So – your are from NY?” – then there are a lot of – “You betchas and okie dokies!” This guy is very talkative – hence the nickname - “Windy” – He says to me – “I’m going to take you down – you are not going to win this!” Okay, I get it – let the locals have there day. Only thing is – I make it to the finals and Windy and his bag of air don’t. So, now I am thinking – do I rub his nose in it and suffer another half-hour talk fest or do I just leave it alone. Naaawwww – “Windy, I am still standing – I can’t see you – you must be down!” My table erupts – I am elevated another notch!

So then, a gal steps into the tee box – but is wearing sandals. The Radio EMCEE notices and comes over: “You are wearing sandals?” “ Yes I am” – “And your toenails are painted?” Yes they are!” “ We must have a ruling on this!” “Ted" (the owner of Schell’s). Ted gets down on all fours and inspects her feet; after a moment, he proclaims – “Nope - get the duct tape!" Okay – you can’t make this stuff up. They duct tape her feet to hide her toes. Three other ladies are subject to this indignity. One guy has to put on a dress and high heels; another has the Schell’s Marketing lady hitched atop his back. Kinky New Ulm – go figure – everyone was laughing like crazy. I am thinking – whoa – NY has its thing – but this is freaked out crazy.

The real contest is a 30’ putt to a hole with water hazards – you have 5 shots; from there you move to the putt-putt up/over-inside shoot – elevated green, etc. – 5 shots for that to. Your final score is that, less what you did in the pre-qualifier. At the end of the day – I finish 5^th or 6^th – they will send me a commemorative 150- year anniversary jacket! And, the best part – I am invited back for other events: to wit: the February Bock Beer fest and the September whatever event – maybe street canoe racing with bathroom plungers instead of oars?

Okay – at the end of the day – these are great folks – a slice of Americana that has endured world wars, Woodstock and the Stock Market – it is a great place to raise a family (despite the duct tape thing), with a great work ethic and a appreciation for those simple things in life that enrich and endure.

Cheers!

Blarney Stone - Authentic Irish Pub

2010-05-10T10:43:00.000-07:00

Ok, here we go again. I have been coming to Bismarck, ND for over 10 years now on business and just stumbled on this little gem. They only opened last October (that explains that), and are apparently getting some very good attention! To start with – I arrived on Sunday and as is typical in Bismarck, just about everything is closed…but even on Mother’s Day? The Radisson folks called every place I could think of – and although their restaurant opened at 4:00 pm – I wanted something else. The Shuttle driver said – “Hey – you need to go to the Blarney Stone!” Ok… He said it was just a block away and 4 doors down from Peacock Alley (also closed). Here’s the kicker: “Everyone I send over there has a great time –good beer, fun staff and just a nice spot to relax”. Ok, I’m in. People drive in from Mandan – so something has got to be right!

I am on my 1-hour power walk, with sweats, headphones and IPod – do I change? Naw – need to check out the Blarney. The place is just as you would expect in an Irish Pub replication. Dark woods, seems like hundreds of taps, traditional Irish music (the more popular stuff, not Gaelic, uilleann pipes, and all). Immediately, I am made to feel right at home by Shasta and Tim. We do a little demo on my Nokia Bluetooth headphones. Shasta really has a great sense of humor and heaps lots of abuse on Tim – but he is very good natured about it. Now I am getting hungry, but I am sans glasses – pay for my wine, back to hotel to retrieve them. They think I was scared off and that was it. So, I return (“Oh, you’re back?”) ready to delve into the menu. Not what I expected.

The menu has its typically pub fare – but also different items you would not expect: Irish Nachos, Mussels Malone, and Smoked Salmon Lox for starters; Sandwiches include: Smoked Sicilian and Honey Cashew Chicken, for example with a great array of burgers and specialty items like Guinness Irish Stew, Shepard’s Pie, Bangers and Mash and a Black & Tan Sirloin (at a very reasonable $16.99 – it is the priciest thing on the menu), along with a great selection of imports and artisan ales. You can even get Clamato Juice in your ale! I had some delicious wings and the Smoked Salmon (nice presentation and very tasty!).

Very nice Clientele – and a real mix of young and older folks too. Manager Kirsten is very proud of her business and I noticed plenty attention to detail and no one goofing off, except me. The staff is very convivial and fun (Amanda and Gabrielle, too).

On balance, the Blarney Stone delivers great food at modest prices, outstanding selection of beverages, and a very relaxing atmosphere (although, I’m sure it can get very hectic in there). For me, on that Sunday, it was the best! I need to go back there.

Slainte!

Ike's at MSP Airport - Wow!

2010-05-10T09:49:00.000-07:00

Well – I have been asked to continue my blogs on airport dining – so then, here we go! Many people succumb to “first convenient spot available and miss many opportunities for really good eats!” Let me tell you about Ike’s!

Located at the MSP - that’s Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport. This is not your standard airport food fare. I have been eating there for years and the remarkable thing its not just about the quality and diversity of offerings, but also consistency of preparation and service and the most attentive and friendliest of staff! Ike’s is a jewel at MSP!

From the moment you enter, you are impressed with the ambiance. The acoustics facilitates business or intimate conversation; the lighting makes you warm and comfortable and table spacing is designed for relaxation at an unhurried pace.

I always get the iceberg lettuce, bacon, the blue cheese salad, the pork-filled pot stickers, and the shrimp cocktail (remarkable)! But, let us but let us not stop there! The menu is enriched with special small plates, classic American favorites (meaning gravy), as well as an array of interesting beef, seafood, sandwiches, salads, soups and just about everything including crab cakes! The staff is fantastic and makes you feel so special. I wish to thank Latira and Zaida for their attention to detail and just all around fun.

So, next time when at MSP– you know where to go!

Let’s face it – you don’t get quality on the cheap – if that’s what you’re after – why are you even reading this…I want, you want, a cascading waterfall of flavor, fun and good eats!

Avocado

2010-04-26T14:56:00.000-07:00

How can I find you?

I don't know where to look...

You left my shadow

Alone without light

So I'll send you my thoughts

That's all I can do

Something small, unhurried and perfect

So green and so ripe and so utterly creamy...

2010-04-25T13:03:00.000-07:00

The Sunset Beach Bar will blow your mind. Located at the beach end of St. Maarten's Princess Juliana International Airport, it is one of the most exciting places I've ever been to (yes, even better than P.F.Chang's Maple Grove MN location - although they are among my top 10 favorites ever). Here's the deal - besides being a great out door tavern - its location demands special attention. Wait till I tell you (first off - we could never do this in the U.S.!) - locals (and drunken tourists) cling to the chain link fence - hold on and let the jet wash of the arriving flight blow them back into the ocean (I wish I had a "critter cam" affixed to somebody); literally yards away from the runway! It is without a doubt the most fantastic places to drink good cold beer, eat and watch the show. Saba Island, very close by has, what is reported to be the shortest commercial runway in the world! And, it is said that only U.S. Navy trained fighter pilots who are now airline fliers can land there - it is like an aircraft carrier! Back to Sunset....whew, I am getting pumped just writing about this!! Not only that, the bar has great food: conch fritters, Black Angus everything, great shrimps, and the very best baked wingies, as well as hand-cut tuna, shellfish, and straight on 'till morning.

Ok - the flight arrival/departure schedules are posted daily (in chalk) on a huge surfboard stuck upright into the sand. - So, you get there, have a drink, check out the timeline, maybe grab a nibble, watch the people and sit back and relax (Yeah, that's what I'm talkin' about!).

So, you are worried about sunstroke? Many, many, many Heineken umbrellas on many tables - you can be cool, and also "cool" in the same instant! The place is actually very spacious - it is packed to be sure, but you don't really notice. They even have activities for children! Live music is always on hand: reggae, soul, rock, and some blues - it is party all night! Giant TVs are on also hand for sports fans, and free WIFI for nerds!

This is a review overdue - but better late than never I say - I've been there twice recently and can't wait to go back!

Cheers! Aye!

Duffy Street Seafood Shack

2010-04-23T09:33:00.000-07:00

You never know what the beach will throw at you – I’m always pretty lucky at ferreting out these little gems. Let me tell you about Duffy Street. Now the place looks like some giant casually tossed a handful of driftwood in a pile – this particular pile is on the corner of Duffy Street and Sea Mountain Parkway in Cherry Grove, North Myrtle Beach. (just a couple of blocks from the beach) The structure rambles both horizontally and vertically – all in a very haphazard and lazy manner. Charm? It does not get any better. However, if you are put off a bit by mess – do not come here. You must wade through about 1.5 feet of accumulated peanut shells; do not wear anything nice; do come with an appetite! The menu is mostly raw, steamed, fried or broiled seafood; fresh fish of the day is usually blackened. A good variety of interesting appetizers, including fish bites, calamari, little necks (steamed or raw), pig skinned shrimp, fried green tomatoes, and great crab cakes just to mention a few. Condiments at the table are stuffed in empty Corona six-pack containers. They dump a heaping platter of fresh roasted in-shell peanuts for you to nibble on while you contemplate what to order. Two of us had the ribs (very tender with a nice cherry glaze – these two folks were pretty well done with seafood by the end of the week); I had the Duffy Street Steam Pot (oysters, clams, shrimps with Old Bay seasoning, crab legs, baked potato, cornbread etc.). It was fantastic and everything perfectly done; the other had the fish corn and crab bisque and snow crab – the bisque was great. Many sides to select and the Key Lime Pie finish was spot on. If you every get near this part of the world – you have to try Duffy Street as a wonderful departure from the more popular Myrtle Beach scene – it is a local favorite and once you go – you will want to come back for sure. ‘Give ‘em a Google and check it out!

Cheers!

Nikki's Hibachi Steakhouse & Sushi Bar, Myrtle Beach

2010-04-18T06:21:00.000-07:00

Myrtle Beach has a seemingly endless variety of ethnic foods, excepting perhaps Moroccan, Afghani, or maybe Pakistani. What they do have is plenty of Japanese restaurants, most of them spinning high-volume tourist turnover. Nikki's is one bright exception. I have provided the link below so that you can see for yourself what a remarkable place this is ~ very beautiful, and the food is quite exceptional. Everything is of the highest quality, very fresh and well presented. I sampled these: Tuna Tataki (lightly seared with bright soy vinegar sauce), Pork Gyoza (pan fried/steamed dumplings with a spicy soy vinegar sauce) and the Fuji Yama Roll (tempura shrimp, fresh eel, avocado, cucumber, topped with seared tuna and a homemade spicy sweet sauce, with extra ell sauce on the side ~ actually, I had two of them). Everything was remarkable and memorable. Although I usually paste photos to these musings, I can't do justice to their web site - you will be wanting to to there as soon as you open the link.

www.nikkissushibar.com

Cheers!

What the Hell was I Thinking...

2010-04-18T06:13:00.000-07:00

Weaving through the barrier dune, the image quivers over my head,

Like a falcon, poised in graceful suspension,

Seagulls tip their wings,

Sandpipers dance on the sand,

And a lone magpie teases a crow...

[Enough of that poetic crap - let's eat something!!]

P.F. CHANG’s Myrtle Beach!

2010-04-17T08:50:00.000-07:00

There is no escape for me. I arrived late Friday (I mean really late) – famished, nothing open, flop into bed…coma. I woke up and flipped through the hotel book – the first thing I see is P.F.CHANG’S MYRTLE BEACH. Life can be such a cruel mistress (this sound better if you think it with a French accent!). Having just come off one of the best of times in my business travels at the P.F. Chang’s Maple Grove (see blog post), to be smacked right in the jaw with another – why its like Ground Hog Day. Now I am compelled to investigate further. [I am also moving toward the realization that it might be possible for me to visit every P.F. Chang’s in the known universe]. Stay on the scene for the review during my week at the beach. Menu will no doubt be familiar, but it will have to be over the top to match Maple Grove. The people…?

P.F. CHANG’S ~ Its All About the People (Oh, Yes and the Food Too!)

2010-04-12T13:20:00.000-07:00

Travel and eat is what I do best…and I have been to many P.F. Chang’s locations (Westbury, Ft. Myers, Naples, Seattle, Charlotte, etc.) throughout the US. Now how do you suppose someone spends virtually two consecutive weeks dining at one location? Well then, you must go to Maple Grove, MN (The Shoppes at Arbor Lakes) and find out for yourself. Here’s the deal – P.F. Chang’s, in general, provides a wonderful culinary service by crafting high quality Asian Cuisine accessible to many who might otherwise not have the opportunity – it is not Chinese buffet troughs loaded with poorly prepared facsimiles of otherwise great dishes; it is not limited street food; it is not Chinese-Americanized banquet fare. The menu is carefully composed to please a range of preferences, dietary restrictions (note the new gluten-free section), and spice tolerance; it is very authentic and the attention to the smallest of details is always evident (I will share my favorites later). 75,000 BTU Wok Stations ensure proper “wok hay”, i.e., “the breath of the wok”. And – guess what? The chefs really know how wield their very hardy carbon steel “pao” woks with jaw-dropping agility over searing volcanic hell fires! Woks are changed out about once every two to three weeks - that says plenty about the demand. (P.S. they know how to properly steam food too!).

One outstanding dimension of this particular location is the compelling warmth of the Staff. The deft combination of great people with great food provides a sure-fire delivery system for the most amazing adventure. Here’s a brief rundown of those I have met: Operating Partner Misty ~ very bubbly, on top of the scene, stays focused on the business, yet makes everyone feel welcome; Manager Rachel ~ statuesque, well composed, efficient; Manager Jen ~ guided laser smile, customer-centric and very charming; Manager Brandon ~ very kind and soft spoken ~ really impressed me that he achieved this position at such a young age; Rebekah ~ delightfully friendly and a great multi-tasker, bar skills A+; Emily ~ you can’t help but giggle with her, she has a most infectious chuckle, bar skills A+; Sahira ~ makes me special sauces, loves to have a laugh too, and is very perceptive about those seated in front of her, bar skills A+; Allen ~ fast, fun and a great bartender, always eager to please; and of course, Culinary Partner, Chef Andres ~ displays a vivid personal commitment to performance excellence. Everyone works at a blinding pace, no missteps (well...then there is Allen who sometimes introduces an acoustic component to his mixology); the work ethic is extraordinary and I often think how much these folks must (a) enjoy their work immensely, (b) enjoy working at P.F. Chang’s immensely, or (c) both (a) and (b). Everyone pitches in and no job is too small for anyone. The abundant pride and attention to service throughout all levels of the organization is extraordinary.

I think it was Rebekah who engineered my first meeting with Chef Andres. He must have been told of my obsessive interest in all things food although there was plenty of objective evidence on that topic to be sure. He was very engaging and eager to slightly stretch the corporate menu and prepare something special for me. This he did on several occasions: Dali Chicken with noodles, Fire Cracker Shrimp and Chicken on a bed of mei fun, with a nice dose of cilantro, and also Chengdu Spiced Lamb, which he kicked up notches above human comprehension. I remember chatting it up with a Gal (pregnant and Peruvian!) about the food, my close ties to the Chef and how great he was to make something a bit out of the P.F. Chang’s standard orbit, only to find out, as I am profusely babbling away, that she’s his Wife!

My favorites? Well I always get the Seared Ahi Tuna served cold with a great mustard dressing, a splayed fan of marinated cucumbers atop fresh mixed greens; this is my salad course and the portion is quite ample. Next up: Handmade Shrimp Dumplings, velvety if steamed and a nice crunch if fried (sauces courtesy of the kitchen or Sahira). Now the hard part, I have probably had just about everything on their menu over the last two years of visiting Maple Grove, but I really enjoy the following (no particular order): Singapore Street Noodles (a.k.a. Singapore Mei fun); Dan Dan Noodles (this is classic street food, although in China, fresh won ton skins are cut into finger width strips and boiled in water to make a noodle!); Dali Chicken (over noodles rather that with the potatoes); Chicken with Black Bean Sauce; Shrimp with Lobster Sauce; Chengdu Spiced Lamb. Oh, what a glorious mouth dance!

I know most have their favorite little spots tucked away here and there, but hey!, when you combine a real nice restaurant, with great food and wonderful people, how can you miss? My Clients think I’m daft for such loyalty , but now I have them thinking – so you are likely to see a steady stream of folks wandering over from the big Wind Turbine!

Cheers!

OTTO'S GERMAN FOOD FEST FANTASTIC

2010-04-11T13:46:00.000-07:00

I haven’t had a real good authentic German Food fest in a while, but I found one – in New Ulm Minnesota.

Ok – you’ll appreciate this once you see what I am talking about. Greg, Matt and I had to overnight in New Ulm – they also had a Schell Brewery Birdies, Bogeys and Beers Radio Broadcast that evening. [Chris from New York, a.k.a. me – got a hole in one, a Schell tee shirt, and is one of 4 finalist for the big event 4/29…ummm. Worth a return trip? – We’ll see. Too bad I did not realize that I was on the radio – maybe would have been a little less infuriated by that crooked shaft and deformed mallet head they called a putter – you can only imagine]. So, here we go.

This platter is designed for 3-5 people– so that is where we began. What’s on it?

Bratwurst
Smoked Bratwurst
Some other typically German sausage
Hassenpfeffer (roasted rabbit with gravy)
Hagemeister (I have no idea what this was)
Some other non-descript meisters
Weiner Schnitzel
A couple of other hunks of schnitzle
German Potato Salad
Red Cabbage
Sauerkraut
Spaetzle with caramelized onions
Deviled eggs, I think too

You would think this is enough – Oh, but no…we added two smoked pork chops; they were so good, we added two more [hence the origin of the dessert – see blog post on this]. There was nothing left but a few lonely spaetzles, lazing about the platter without a care in the world. There was plenty of cold beer and three dessert schnitzles to complete our gluttony.

I was so full, I could hard step out of my lederhosen and pull the cowbell from around my neck. I dreamt that evening of edelweiss and Black Forest hams.

TRAM ANH ~ Reinventing the Po' Boy

2010-04-11T13:10:00.000-07:00

Once again Minnesota Matt ferrets out another unique gem. This time – he’s really found something extraordinary. Tram Anh is a tiny little spot specializing in Vietnamese food to go and catering. The place is roomy enough for a few tables for casual eating. The décor is almost stunning with bright neon colors – very typical of the culture. It has everything imaginable tucked here and there, posters, a patrons business card shelf, photos of selected menu items, celebrities, Vietnamese newspapers…you name it!

The food is really quite good, and everything Vietnamese, from all of the little wonderful appetizers, salads, steamed rolls and pan cakes (these are not pancakes), rice vermicelli, stir fried rice or egg noodles, broken steamed rice, soups, fried rice, smoothies w/pearl (tapioca), and on it goes. However, what brought us to this spot is the sandwich – (hero, submarine, hoagie – whatever you prefer). It is a sublime, satisfyingly tasty chunk of deliciousness complete with limitless varieties of composed scrumptious fillings – all of which are very herbaceous owing to copious amounts of fresh basil, cilantro, mint, chives, etc. What do they add? Here we go! Bean sprouts, crushed peanuts, marinated grilled pork (amazing), shredded pork, shrimp, little meatballs, grilled chicken, beef and duck, and even sardines if you like. No meal in Vietnam is served without dipping sauces – sweet rice vinegar with shredded carrots, traditional garlic chili pastes, Sriracha you can squeeze out yourself, concoctions of hoisen and nam pla (fish sauce), in an endless and captivating array. How about the roll? Here’s the best part – were not talking about thick doughy bread rolls – who wants culinary foreplay with all of that goodness tucked inside the roll? ‘Must be artisanal and local – very crispy – very thin outer crust that dissolved away into a tasty foundation for the filling – almost a utensil onto itself – does not interfere, but accentuates.

They tell me that these sandwiches are popular in Minneapolis – but it is the first time for me – please go there – but arrive early to beat the lunch crowd. Tram Anh is located at 8038 Brooklyn Blvd, Brooklyn Park, MN 55445. (Pictures of the Owner and a few dishes).

Pork for Dessert - Oh, Yeah!

2010-04-11T13:06:00.000-07:00

You had better buckle up for this one – very bizarre – I only wish I had a picture of this – and to be sure, I’ll post one as soon as I make it!

This came in a vision to [yes, Matt again – this guy should write a book on how to read a menu – and he is very much like me – while I’m eating lunch, I am thinking about dinner – and what can be converted from dinner to a late night snack or even breakfast] – but I made some modifications.

For the nut-like topping (NOT):

· 1 smoked pork chop – diced

· Melted dark chocolate infused with Ancho Chili Powder – use plenty for a nice smoky flavor – or use milder milk chocolate if you prefer

Heat the chocolate, add a nice tablespoon of Ancho powder, and add the diced smoked pork – let simmer for a few minutes, then drain through a coarse sieve and set aside to cool, place in refrigerator to get happy! You are looking for individual chocolate-coated grains of pork – think pistachios!

Next, place a bed of pork rinds on a plate; [now really – you could just as easily crumble a few vanilla wafers – but the lipid delivery system must be complete] add a nice scoop of French Vanilla Ice Cream. Then, drizzle with Calvados (this will go very nicely), and top with the chilled pork bits, coated with the Ancho infused chocolate.

Oh, yes! This would sell in NYC, LA, you name it – especially if you could also get fois gras infused Vodka on the side!

Cheers, Aye!

My #1 Airport Restaurant Pick

2010-02-11T12:43:00.000-08:00

You travel all of the time, spending countless dreadful hours groping through an endless sea of connections. And, yes, you do get an urge for a bite to eat now and then. But what a collection of dreadful places that airports everywhere seem to inflict upon the hapless wanderer. You are all painfully aware of the Food Court ~ at best it is a carnage of culinary misery that can only be ingested by the totally unaware whose insight is eclipsed by either a per diem or hunger so intense that all judgement instantly vaporizes. Yet a few sparse havens of delight are carefully nested here and there so as to tease you along your merry way. Where are they? Trial and error is ok, but here's a great tip for you. My very best favorite out of all of the airports I travel through, from Seattle to Dallas/Ft. Worth to Bismarck to LA to Tampa, to (to tedious to list)....is the Sky Asian Bistro in the Philadelphia International Airport. It can be found just a few steps into Concourse C. I so highly regard this little gem that I will actually shuttle there if located in another Terminal should time permit, just to dine! I would not necessarily elevate the Bistro to the level of a Cantonese Dim Sum House or a 3 Michelin Star sushi bar; however, you will find quite excellent Pan-Asian cuisine here at reasonable prices, although the beverage costs are a bit steep. Having said that, the sushi, hand rolls, sashimi are all excellent, as are the more traditional noodle bowls, soups and speciality items. The Kinki Chicken Wings are fantastic with the most provocative Polynesianesque sauce (mint, ginger and pickled cucumber), pan seared Ahi Tuna (Chinese spicing, wasabi and citrus dressing), and my all time favorite ~ the Black Dragon Roll with spicy salmon, eel, avocado, caviar and a drizzle of eel sauce. I drool just thing about it. come to think of it, the Red Dragon Roll is also quite tasty as well (salmon, yellow tail and tuna). The Service Staff is always polite and eager to please. February 9, 2010, the day they shut they shut down the airport while employees scrambled to get home, my Waitress, Lindsey made quite certain that everything I ordered was just right and promptly served. My wine glass never seemed to empty. So, for those of you who find yourself in the Philly airport - do stop in check it out - you will not be disappointed.

Seattle Recomendations

2010-02-03T09:07:00.000-08:00

Seattle - half way around the world from New York State. The bleak, drab, misty, rainy, chilly January left me, as usual, famished. Now, there are some brief glimpses of the sun, and when that noble event occurs, everyone is crazy, out-of-their-minds with a dizzying euphoria ~ I would expect no less and understand completely. Syracuse, NY is only second to this Northwest City in overcast days. So, what is there to eat? Seattle boasts an amazing assortment of fine dining and ethnic eateries. The International District is moments away from my hotel: Silver Cloud Hotel Stadium (across the street from the Stadiums). Jimmy's (the Hotel restaurant, although I don't think affiliated) is really quite good: Shrimp and Dungeness Crab Cobb Salads, Clam Chowders, meat, pasta and fish dishes are all very well prepared. Their Chef, Steven prepared a couple of special platters for me - how great is that? The Barman, Donee (you must check out his web site: http://www.donalddeezplace.com/ -WARNING - some images may be leave you utterly disgusted, but yet you shall remain fascinated!), provided me with a list of his favorites: Armandino's Salumi (Mario Batali's Dad, and photo of store front) is wonderful (artisan cured and speciality meats - lunch line begins at 10:30 and they give you nibbles while you wait in the 3 block long queue); 631 Roaster House; Anthony's Pier 66; Ivar's; Fisherman's Terminal (for crab); Cutter's; UMI (sushi); Wasabi Bistro; Ohana (Polynesian); Maegowa (Japanese); Shananai (Cantonese); Green Leaf (Tiwanese); Peso's (for the carne asada, garlic mashed and green beans -WOW!). Also, look-up Greg Hancock, Director of Grills and Thrills at the Pyramid Breweries (across fron the Hotel). My stay was full of work, but I shall return in March and go through Donee's list more thoroughly. Hopefully, the sun will make an appearance.

Cheers! Happy Eats!

A Feasting We Will Go…The Pleasures of Excess!

2009-10-19T14:45:00.000-07:00

Why, Oh Why do I go here…What is the point…Who cares and who listens? Well my beloved food friendly friends, it is you! You of all people get this …it is why you are here, reading the culinary musings of one who has spent endless evenings in a Grand Mal of flavor induced euphoria. Yet, it is simply not enough. You [We] want more, we need more and yet, with each attainable moment of temporal success, and after the endorphins have subsided, we are left crashed like a heroine junkie, sad, sullen, even morose…ah, yet here it comes…quietly at first, then building with increasing momentum, like a massive rock slide catapulting down the mountain…the thought blasts out of our skulls, loud enough to at least get our attention…what shall I have to eat next! Yes, that’s it!!! Options…many options, must be selective though…I only have this one opportunity for this one evening...must get it right. What shall it be? The answer to this question is largely dependent on mood. Here are a few simple suggestions on how to deal with this issue and maximize the opportunity:

Never order anything you can make better at home;
Whatever it is that you order, always order enough for a late night snack or breakfast (I do this all of the time, and actually write “leftovers for breakfast” on my receipts submitted to Clients – this way it is not so shocking that I spent $80 on a 5 oz. piece of Japanese Kobe Beef; I really do eat the leaftovers for breakfast!);
Stretch your taste buds into another culinary realm (I get very annoyed with folks who live their entire lives in a very narrow ethnic food lane); use the ever popular IPhone app – “Ethnic Food Lovers Delight” [not a bad idea, anyone interested in a little design work? $0.99 x 2 million subscribers will put a lot of puffer fish cheeks on your plate];
Go for things you need to eat with fingers, chop sticks, over-sized ladles, or slurp from a large vat;
Be sure that whatever it is, pork fat is involved [duck fat will also do in a pinch];
If number 5 above is not readily available, ask for a larding needle and do it yourself;
Ensure plenty of tasty beverages accompany the adventure;
And, lastly, order something that you can share with an invited friend or two; eating alone is about nutrition, eating with another is a party.

It is perfectly natural to enjoy the experience of decision-making, but once decided, move swiftly if you must, or linger quietly in the confidence that a decision has been struck, warmed in the knowledge that you have carved out a wonderful selection of plates, tailored to your specific mood of the moment and enjoy another glass of wine.

It’s a pity that we can’t embark on this adventure like every couple of hours or so. Maybe my heaven will present such an opportunity; my hell will, of course, include roast suckling pig!

Here we go again! Celebrity Chefs

2009-08-30T13:09:00.000-07:00

This is a bona fide phenomenon. I remember back in the very early nineties, watching a very young Emeril Lagasse, another fellow, Pasquale Carpino, who would belt out operatic arias and steam saute his way through the show, Martin Yan, also very young, and of course Julia Child and Jacques Pepin. Who would have thought that almost 20 years later we would have such an array of TV entertainment dedicated to food and the people who cook it! Giada, can you say for me: "brooschkettaaa"? Mario, can you say: "the undisputed king of cheese, parmegianno reggggggiaannooooo"? Emeril - how about: Bam, bam, bam-bam? Guy Fieri - is it money or is it just off the hook? Paula - can you make anything without a "1/2 pound of buuutteeerrr"? Tyler - how about the "ultimate" farte? Bobby - just how many chili peppers does it take to grill a shrimp? Oh, speaking of peppers, Rick Bayless is purported to be the best ambassador of authentic Mexican cuisine in the US, and I am inclined to agree - he does not really have any signature tag lines - but he could speak at little less deliberately. Andrew Zimmerman - what the hell are you going to choke down next - stinky tofu smeared on a bagel, topped with wild boar snot? How about the Iron Chef, with that stringy acrobatic host - cause we need him to coordinate everything - a panel of no less than 3 "experts", two of which typically don't know a damn thing about cooking, a mystery ingredient that each battle contestant has known about for several weeks, and Alton Brown, chirping his way through the show with a blizzard of gastronomic food facts, like I care. The worst is that other commentator - Kevin Brauch - he adds such richness and dimension to the program when he recaps the scoring formula and helps me count to 5; I was left in tatters when he told Alton about the fish poop and kelp ice cream Iron Chef Morimoto had just made. Then you have Gordon Ramsay: yeah, bollux the bloody whatever, throw the dish down the bloody toilet and get the f%$&** out of here, you ingrate!" (Wow that does feel refreshing) This is only the beginning - it will never end, and it will provide ongoing fodder for food bloggers all over the world. Out of this chaotic melange of celebrity chefs, comes at least one with the integrity, the selflessness and creativity to dominate the food scene: What would we do to fill our pantries without Sandra Lee?

This was such fun that I think I'll do another blog on Celebrity Chefs.

Anthony Bourdain ~ finally someone gets me!

2009-08-28T15:36:00.000-07:00

This is the man that changed everything, and pretty much all at once with the birth of No Reservations! He has spent 28 years sweating, smoking, drinking, eating, creating and enjoying his career immensely. Now, he has achieved the pinnacle of prominence, the acme of ACME, the fundamental Holy Grail of what I believe to be the very best profession imaginable: he writes, eats, travels and is always hungry for more. Not every Chef could pull this off. His appeal is so refreshing, and a sharp departure from the well-scripted verse imposed by the FoodTV network. Anthony would never tolerate such a thing. In a staccato burst of creative expletives (I mean, how can you not admire a fellow like that), he would storm out of the #$%&&* set in a blaze of fury, snarling with abject disdain. Why do I like this guy? Because he is the real deal - not some pre-fabricated TV personality. And, I have noticed a subtle change over his 5 seasons. He is focusing increasingly on the human condition and the learnings so generously offered, with food as the pivot point! This is the friction that ignites the story. Everything about his show captures the essence, the spirit, the core of his view in the moment of exploration. He reactions are always genuine. There is a bit of a hard edge to him, that when turned inside out reveals a very soft downy, almost drowsy lining that has such appeal. He can be warm, yet turn on a dime into a scathing critic of whatever is in his view finder at that instant. His enjoyment of food is boundless. The contemporary physio-metrics and the science of metabolic processing demands grafting a porta-potty to his backside ~ how can he survive some of those ethnic feasting bouts? Would that I could travel to the some of the special places that he's been - thank God he provides a vehicle for the unexplorable. He gets me, because I get him!

The Movable Feast ~ Friday Day 5:

2009-08-22T12:34:00.000-07:00

By now, my cholesterol levels lie beyond the limits of present measurability. I have taken on a unique skin tone, no doubt attributed to the natural sheen my coat has absorbed from fat.

318 Mill Café (Excelsior, MN): Matt found this little gem for our final lunch that was a convenient shot for me to the MSP airport. Greg Archer, another GRE Environmental Professional joined us. We began with two homemade pizzas: apple, bacon, gorgonzola and a Serrano ham, pear & chevre, accented with a spinach/balsamic reduction. The dough is made fresh daily. We generally don’t like to mix fruit with savory on pizzas, but the combination work very well. For my main lunch, I ordered the Cured Meat tray that included very generous portions of Serrano, sopressata, chorizo, conrnichons, kalamata olives, sautéed walnuts and baguette. Greg had a taco assortment, his favorite being the potato, chorizo, with queso fresco. Then there is Matt; his deliberations took quite a while ~ he must have reviewed their little menu 100 times, interspersing his reading with forays to inspect the dessert bar. He finally decided on a turkey, brie, apple sandwich slathered with honey/pecan butter. He then “taco cost averaged” his way into two nice ones: the chorizo potato and also shredded chicken. We were stuffed, but not Matt – he consumed a rather huge artisan cupcake in about three bites. I sweat just thinking about it! If you get a chance, you must go to the 318 Mill Café, it won’t disappoint!

Thanks!

At the end of the day, it is amazing how food can bring people of diverse interests together, and is this particular instance, to share the gluttonous bounty produced during this week-long harvest. Thanks to Erik for his home-smoked salmon, to Lloyd Brandt for the smoked salmon from Lowes, and a special thanks to Matt for all of the work he must have invested to bring this all together. He has already commenced preparations for my next visit. To preview: indigenous fresh Lake Superior fish boils; outdoor pizza oven cook your own, adventure; Thai submarine sandwiches (this I gotta experience) and Heaven knows what else is lurking behind that under-nourished noggin of his! Bon Appetite!

ps ~ Minnesota, who would have ever guessed!

pss ~ apologies for my incorrect assertion in a prior article that "anything on a stick" is a signature Minnesotan dish - only at the State Fair, where you can bet your last dollar that each year out performs the last in this regard.

The Movable Feast ~ Thursday Day 4: (Cambridge and Grandy, MN)

2009-08-22T12:31:00.000-07:00

Breakfast: Smoked salmon this time from Lowes located in Two Harbors provided courtesy of Lloyd Brandt, NCT Foreman; brown sugar brined; medium to cold smoked…very nice, and I noticed that Erik agreed.

Brass Rail (Grandy, MN): Matt describes this as a tiny joint in Northern Minnesota, but one with the very best broasted chicken. It appears that Minnesota has its very own selection of “ethnic” foods; among them are: Northern Whitefish; Smoked Trout; Native Wild Rice; and of course, broasted chicken. Here’s the deal ~ broasted chicken is not fried chicken per se, but rather seasoned and floured chicken on the bone (no boneless breasts will do here!), deep fried in a controlled temperature pressure cooker; very tricky to pull off. With the right touch, the chicken emerges with the most excellent crispy tangy skin, and very moist delectable meat inside. If all of the preparations and execution are not precise, you wind up with grease-laden, over-cooked outside, and under-cooked red to the bone on the inside. This is why everyone celebrates when somebody gets it right! And, believe me, the Brass Rail gets it right! As you can see from the photos, there were no dainty portions of breast meat and they will assemble any chicken pieces that you like! Sides included toast and Cole Slaw; you have your potato option: waffle fries, broasted potatoes, tater tots, and so on. This is by far the very best chicken I have ever eaten – bar none, anywhere in the USA.

For your information, the Owner has constructed a mobile broasting rig: this means catering an on-premise broast-fest. Oh, yeah!

THE MOVABLE FEAST (a short series)

2009-08-22T12:24:00.000-07:00

Well you see, Matt Herman is an Environmental Professional, gourmand, localvore and bon vivant, a big fellow to be sure, with a bigger heart and an insatiable passion for food, particularly good food and lots of it; he is also bit of a wise guy (at least with me). He takes great care in managing his culinary environment, and is not adverse to exploration, or exploitation (See rib cost averaging in Tuesday's report). While on a consulting assignment with Great River Energy in Minnesota, Matt was not only my primary Client Contact, but also my culinary cruise director, expertly piloting me through the most amazing gastronomic safari. Let us begin this week-long travel log.

“If you aren’t thinking about food, you’re just not concentrating!” (Anthony Bourdain)

The Movable Feast ~ Monday Day 1: (Maple Grove, MN)

2009-08-22T12:18:00.000-07:00

To start, Erik Silvola, another fine GRE Environmental Professional, really knows his way around all sorts of game cookery. He’s truly and avid sportsman and an expert in the precise and delicate art of smoking fish; his knowledge about the various techniques, seasoning and brining, use of aromatics, etc. is huge (hey, we’re talking about a Finlander who knows how to build real saunas for Pete’s sake). We began our meeting with the most delightful nosh of salmon (taken by Erik from the Kenai River in south-central Alaska), accompanied by carefully selected crackers, artisan cream cheeses, etc. He lamented the use of Chardonnay over the Sauvignon Blanc in the brining preparation and moisture infusion during the smoking process (a chef is never satisfied!). Breakfast salmon was available all week long! I have the most wonderful job in the world.

Kabobs (Maple Grove, MN) ~ I was numb with anticipation until at last we arrived at the most splendid of buffet tables. The food glistened with oils and spices; aromas permeated everything. How utterly thoughtful of Matt to suggest this first insertion point; he is devilishly clever, thinking that he could soften my expectations of things to follow by blowing my mind with this first salvo. It was so very good; I hated myself in the moment. Everything was superb: papadums, dosay, curried goat, reshmi chicken, tandoori minced lamb seek kabab, dals, naan, etc. The buffet was preferable to ordering from the menu ~ why you ask? It is very simple: lots of choices to sample, and unlimited refills; there is no disappointment, only bliss. I enjoy Indian cuisine whenever and wherever I can, and this place is top quartile in terms of freshness, taste and authenticity. I must say that the highlight for me was the goat – terrific! Kabobs is certainly not to be missed. The little place is compact but charming and very clean. You must go there!

The Movable Feast ~ Tuesday Day 2: (Maple Grove and Rogers, MN)

2009-08-22T12:14:00.000-07:00

Next up: The Rib Cage (Rogers, MN). Now, I travel all over the USA, and BBQ is a prevalent feature to be found almost everywhere, with the exception of those few hallowed grounds wherein the technique has been perfected to an absolute art form. This particular locale is something quite special: good BBQ…from a trailer…in a parking lot…next to a mobile home park… You can't make this stuff up! This joint is a temple of BBQ consumption: everything that is so wrong, yet so real (however, I am told that this particular day was not quite up to standard in that the pork, beef and smoked chicken breast were just a tad on the dry side; I suppose it makes a difference if “Dad” is at the helm rather than the Sous Chef). It is all very simple, basic, and enjoyable. We sampled everything. They use cherry wood in the smoker and the ribs were really very good, as was the bratwurst. The pork, beef and chicken were also tasty, and the addition of a little sauce was helpful; speaking of sauces: one mild and one spicy; both are laced with a subtle cherry flavor to lift up the smokiness imparted by the cherry wood. Matt has pioneered “rib cost averaging” which goes something like this: quarter rack with sides $8.50 v. half rack with sides $10.50 (sides can be factored out, as one does not allocate prime stomach space to incidentals like beans and slaw anyway); double your rib count for a $2.00 investment! Good thing the Rib Cage hasn’t stumbled on this tidbit. The line between work and pleasure is now blurred… how nice, yet we should not become too invested in that sentiment!

The Movable Feast ~ Wednesday Day 3: (Champlin, MN)

2009-08-22T12:07:00.000-07:00

Buona Sera Ristorante & Wine Bar (Champlin, MN) ~ Dinner with Matt and his lovely wife Gina. The Owner has taken great care to transport us to a little slice of Italy (to be more precise, Calabria). The restaurant has been expanded for more seating, and the addition of beautifully hand-painted murals, and a few window-wall plasma TVs that run videos of stunning Italian scenery, add real warmth and coziness. Al fresco dining can be enjoyed outside in a nicely landscaped terrace; herb and vegetable gardens just reinforce the dimension of being someplace special.

The Bruschetta was authentic with a nice touch of good olive oil; so too were the prawns lightly dusted with fine herbed breadcrumbs then fried and served with a tasty chipotle mayonnaise sauce (chipotle is not really Italian I suppose, but I’m not complaining).

The Sea Food Chowder was creamy and ample.

The salads came with our choice of dressing; the greens cool and crisp and everything fresh. The house balsamic vinaigrette was wonderful.

For dinner, Matt had one of the specials, Steak Cacciatore. This was a nice NY Strip, perfectly cooked to his liking nested in a rustic sauce of capers, artichokes, kalamata olives, etc. I sampled a thin slice and was in full agreement with Matt with regard to the detail and execution of the dish. Gina had a Penne Carbonata in a cream sauce; we were all amazed at her ability to work through that family-style serving! I had the Veal Marsala and was quite pleased with the generous servings of perfectly prepared veal and a very nice wine-reduction crème sauce, with plenty of mushrooms. Matt and I were also served our selection of penne in a marinara sauce as a side, among the several offered.

The desserts were quite remarkable: excellent home-made apricot gelato (about the very best gelato I have ever had!) Several other flavors were also available) and a wonderfully composed vanilla bean Crème Brule! The espresso was the final touch to a great diner.

Matt can’t just let me be. He keeps reeling me in, no rest, and no opportunity for recovery time; I’m almost done in… In a food induced miasma, I went to brush something off of my cheek ~ a fly? Nope, it was the table.

The Movable Feast ~ Wednesday Day 3: (Grand Marais MN)

2009-08-22T11:33:00.000-07:00

"Located on the scenic North Shore of Lake Superior in the town of Grand Marais, Minnesota, the Angry Trout Cafe is a small indoor/outdoor restaurant cobbled together out of an old commercial fishing shanty that clings to the edge of Grand Marais Harbor. From this beautiful setting we offer a menu based on the bounty of Lake Superior and the surrounding region – locally-grown produce, hand-harvested wild rice, and of course, our specialty, fresh Lake Superior fish." Can you just imagine how wonderful this is?

The Angry Trout Café ~ The shores of Lake Superior just cannot be described in words ~ such beauty. Grand Marias lies at the tip of Arrowhead County, abounding with small-town charm. Hey, the water here is cold with an average mean temperature of 38 degrees – no algae flourishes and you can see through a fathom of water! The Angry Trout is also home of a fabulous smoker hut and the Dockside meat market/deli/souvenir shop (very nice smoked fish tasting station: the smoked trout with a dab of ancho chili/maple sauce and a nice cracker was excellent). Erik had the Tom & Harley’s Classic Grand Marais Fish Burger (fried herring). The whitefish chowder was outstanding, loaded with fish, potatoes and vegetables. Several others ordered smoked trout salads, or wild rice salads that included an array of fresh picked berries and even edible flowers. The Fish & Chips were very tasty, and the home-made dill tartar sauce was perfect Our Waitress provided an assortment of dressings and sauces. They make all of their own soda, and I heard no one complain. Locally harvested fish and produce are the hallmark of this quaint little place.

As an aside, we plummeted through deep space as our little corporate jet bounced off of the tornado clouds, sodas flying, people praying, as we returned from Grand Marais to the Anoka Airfield. We thought we were safe until we got in the car, raising 20' rooster tails as we drove back to Maple Grove. Whew...

Kelly's Bar & Restauraunt - Transformed!

2009-07-31T11:03:00.000-07:00

Kelly's has always been (and under various ownerships and names) a very nice neighborhood spot to watch sports, hang out with friends after a long work week, eat wings and burgers, and generally just have some fun. I am way behind on this particular topic, because this place has transformed into something quite special: always thought of Kelly's as what I have described above, never as a destination spot for dinner ~ but I do now! The menu has been seriously re-invented, with offerings one would not expect to find in such a setting. They have introduced a number of "small plates" to broaden their appeal to those who desire something beyond traditional appetizer fare, you know, chicken wings and such. Oh by the way, chicken wings? These have been redesigned as well to include Caribbean and Asian flavors ~ very nice! The Wam Bam Shrimp is an exceptional starter, with a nice crunch, served nestled among a bed of mixed greens. My favorite small plate is the Thai Beef Noodle Bowl, also an exceptional composition of herbs, fresh bean sprouts, sauteed veggies, egg noodles and nice tender beef shavings in a tangy sauce. (Pictures of each are at the top). The Owners and Staff have taken, and continue to take, great care in their campaign to deliver culinary excitement amid a sea of drab, predictable, tired and often overpriced competition. I am very enthused about what is happening at Kelly's. Do not miss this opportunity! [Kelly's is located at: 5076 Velasko Rd, Syracuse, NY13215]

The Very Best Steamed Crabs!

2009-06-12T14:17:00.000-07:00

I've written a little bit on steamed clams (oh! so delicious); so today, I decided that a little refresher on snow crab would be fun. Steaming is preferred to boiling. When you boil, the crab will release most of its delicate flavor to the water bath; whereas steaming locks it in. Very simple. There are myriad ways to to this, but because large snow crab clusters can be found in most groceries at a very reasonable price (unlike Alaskan King Crab), you can experiment to your heart's content.

Ingredients:

5 lbs flash frozen snow crab clusters (do not thaw)

2 bottles of a nice, robust ale (the choice is yours - but do not use a light lager)

1 cup white wine (of course, something you would drink)

a handful of chives and parsley

1 onion quartered; 2-3 stalks celery chopped

2 bay leaves

1 quarter cup vinegar (I like rice vinegar)

salt and fresh ground pepper

Old Bay Seasoning

Method:

place all ingredients, except crab and Old Bay into a very large pot (you may have to trim the crab to fit if you steamer is not large enough)

bring to a nice simmer with cover ajar for about 10-15 minutes to let the flavors blend

meanwhile, rinse the crab clusters in cold water to remove any heavy ice build-up, place on a platter and sprinkle liberally with Old Bay

turn up the temperature to high to get a good boil going, set crab into the steamer basket, cover the pot

steam for 4-6 minutes until the crab is nicely heated through

Serve with melted butter (I prefer not, because the crab has such a wonderful flavor is its own right, but some people insist upon it). A nice potato salad and cole slaw goes very well with this. Of course, cold beer is essential (if you use the same kind as you did in the steamer, you'll notice that the flavors lift up nicely).

Now - what to do with the leftover crab? I make crab cakes and my Wife makes a killer chilled crab dip. Crab Cakes:

Ingredients:

for a 5 lb batch of snow crab for three people - you will have about 1 lbs of leftover crab meat- perfect (pick through to remove any shell fragments
1 cup Panko breadcrumbs, plus extra for coating the cakes
1 tsb Coleman's Dry Mustard
1 beaten egg
1 tbs chopped cilantro or parsley
enough mayonnaise to moisten everything up (about a quarter cup or more)
1 eighth - 1 quarter tsp cayenne pepper
salt and pepper to taste

Method:

combine everything except extra Panko; mix well but do not over work it
roll into balls, and flatten with palms
dust surfaces with remaining Panko
heat peanut or vegetable oil and saute until nice and golden brown on both sides
drain on wire rack and keep warm in 180 degree oven until ready to eat

Serve with a nice remoulade or tarter saute!

Its all about the Nectar! Steamed Clams

2009-06-03T12:18:00.000-07:00

Well, who does not like steamed clams? They come in so many varieties (about 2000 species to be precise!) allocated among the two types: hard and soft shell: Quahog, Littlenecks, Cherrystone, Longnecks, Razor (one of my favorite), Manila, etc. There are, of course, many ways to prepare them such as steaming or grilling. Here's a great recipe that emphasizes the steaming media (nectar):

Ingredients:

3 dozen hard shell clams (Littlenecks are just fine!)

1.5 cups water

1 cup of a good dry sherry

one-third cup of a good extra virgin olive oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 inch fresh ginger, left whole but peeled

1 handful clilantro, chopped

1 onion, diced

2-3 ribs celery, chopped

Sea salt and black pepper to taste

Method:

Scrub clams and rinse under cold water, discard any that do not close when the shell is tapped.

Fill a large pot with the all ingredients, except the clams, heat to a simmer for about 10 minutes to allow flavors to blend, then turn up to high and bring to a boil.

Place clams into a steaming rack and set into the pot.

Cover pot, turn heat down to low and steam for about 6-8 minutes or until clams open; discard any that do not open.

Put clams into a nice serving bowl and ladle the nectar into mugs for dipping and drinking; plenty of good crusty bread is great for sopping up those juices.

Serve with ice cold beer!

Spring Roll Fantastic

2009-06-02T12:30:00.000-07:00

I am locally famous for my delicious spring rolls - so I thought I would publish the recipe for those who might wish to try making them at home! Makes 25.

Ingredients:

Wei Chuan Spring Roll Wrappers (essential - do not use any other variety): use immediately after thawing
1 Block extra firm Tofu: wrap in paper towels, weight down, repeat to remove excess moisture; then dice
12 Chinese Black Mushrooms: soak in hot water 15 minutes, drain, wring out in paper towels to remove excess moisture and shred into fine strips
2 bundles thin bean thread noodles: soak in hot water,for 15 minutes, drain, dry with paper towels, and chop coarsely
1-2 carrots: finely shredded, wrap in paper towels and squeeze out excess moisture
2-3 scallions minced
1-2 inches grated ginger
3 tbs Nam Pla: "3 Crab Brand" is best (Thai Fish Sauce)
1 tsp white pepper

Method

Place all ingredients in a non-reactive bowl and mix well until combined;
Place about 1 heaping tbs into lower corner of wrapper, moisten upper corner, fold up once, fold in sides and wrap to complete; set seam side down on parchment paper; complete remaining spring rolls;
Fry in peanut oil ( you will need 4, 32 oz. bottles for a home deep fryer; you can use less in a good pot) at 360 degrees for about 4-6 minutes until golden; drain on wire rack and keep warm in 180 degree oven until all complete and ready to serve.

Serve with favorite dipping sauce (I like duck sauce mixed with chili garlic sauce (Tuong Ot Tio Viet Nam); soy/sugar/rice vinegar sauce, hot mustard, etc.)

Note: let peanut oil cool; strain through cheese cloth or a fine meshed sieve; pour into plastic jug and place in refrigerator. The oil can be reused about 6-8 times for this recipe; of course, if you are frying chicken wings, shrimp, etc., you can reuse the oil only about 3 times.

Note: You can make excellent fried wonton strips, but use the regular wonton skins to do so; just cut into 1/2 inch strips and deep fry for a couple of minutes until nice and golden; remove with a slotted spoon, place on a towel and sprinkle on a little Chinese Pepper Salt (1 tbs Szechuan peppercorns, 2 tbs salt and 1/8 tsp Chinese Five-Spice Powder: dry roast peppercorns for about 1 minute - shake constantly, let cool and add salt and Five-Spice Powder ~ place into a spice grinder and there you go!).

Sonoran Hot Dog Diggety

2009-06-01T11:34:00.000-07:00

Every place has its signature food stuff: Chicago Hot Dog and Deep Dish Pizza; NYC Deli Sandwiches and Neapolitan Pizzas; Minnesota - anything served on a stick and the Bloody Mary Wars (they just can't put enough stuff into a Bloody Mary, for example: shrimp, Polish Sausage link, celery, hard boiled egg, carrot stick, beef jerky - all at once mind you, with a beer chaser to boot! I should do a blog just on Minnesota); Southern Fried Chicken, Texas BBQ, and so on. Well, I was in Tucson recently and had a great stay at the Las Brisas near the airport. The Hotel food was just fine, but I asked the Reservation Desk about escabeche and such, and was advised that the Sonoran Hot Dog was exceptionally unique. Well, let us proceed forthwith!

Let me explain this tasty roadside treat (and anyone from Chicago, please take note, as if you can't get enough fat charged goodness!).

The hot dog is wrapped in bacon (yes, the addition of bacon improves anything) and grilled. It is then nestled into a soft torta-bread like bun, and the following items are applied: beans, tomato, onion, mustard, mayo, salsa verde, and occasionally avocado and/or guacamole. It is absolutely fabulous and I could eat them all day long

So, grab onto a cactus, add an ice cold Dos Equis, and pop a couple of these little darlins' into your mouth ~ napkins are optional!

The Gingerbread Cafe ~ Nice & Tasty

2009-06-01T08:08:00.000-07:00

'Just hangin' out wit a few friends! Dats de way we do it, nice and tasty, cool and refreshing, like dew in de mornin' ~ yeah, dat is soooo relaxin'

That's me on the end with a couple of my best buddies, Pete and Alan and left again with another best buddie, John. While the wives were taking a beach stroll, the boys stopped into our favorite little spot in St. Maarten; our second visit! This little hut sits over the water and has a splendid view of the ocean, the Divi Resort, and Saba Island. The open air configuration lets the warm breezes waft about the interior. The Gingerbread Cafe is located at the Belair Beach Hotel in Phillipsburg. The staff is so very friendly and the food is wonderful. Each week they also have two themed evening parties with live music and dancing: Caribbean lobster night and a full barbecue (one of the best ever!). The BBQ had ribs, chicken, shrimp, with all the fixins'; the lobsters were huge and grilled to perfection ~ I think Alan and I had two apiece, and washed them down with plenty of Carib and Presidente lagers. The Gingerbread also has a great breakfast and lunch (they will pack you a cooler of food and beer to take to the beach too!).

Before "Feelin' da Meal" - you have to have a special little libation: "Duane's Revenge", invented by John (photo on left) ~ and Duane, the bartender, was all over it! In goes the guavaberry, mango rum, some fruit juice, a little grenadine and ice ~blend well and float some Rum Jumbie on the top. This will tune you right up!

They make the most delicious Conch Fritters you've every had; very tender with a dipping sauce so sublime I still can't quite reproduce it precisely. We could not get enough of it and even slathered it on our burgers. For a little hotel beach hut, the Gingerbread Cafe is charming and loads of fun. Everything is wonderful and very reasonably priced. Even guests from the Divi next door eventually wind up at this eatery! So, de next time you happen to be in St. Maarten, please drop in for a nice Duane's Revenge and a bite to nibble.

Trader Dick's at the Nugget! Reno!

2009-05-31T11:26:00.001-07:00

After having dropped a bundle at the casino gaming tables, I was ravenous. I looked up from the slot machine and saw the ocean. I thought for a moment that I was underwater! How could I have gotten underwater? Oh, it is a place to eat and I do not need scuba gear; thank God I have a few dollars left. Trader Dick's is an absolutely tropical fun food adventure, brought to you direct from the John Ascuagas Nugget where the restaurant is located. A huge aquarium spans the entire length of the Tiki Bar, and is exceptionally well-stocked with a variety of coral reef fish, and maintained in pristine condition. There is also a glass enclosed tiki hut that houses a huge clay roasting oven, that is sometimes used for special events. I bet you could slow roast three or four full grown hogs in this thing that looks like an big beige igloo!

Now to "Feel the Meal"!

Island Drinks come in all sizes and flavors and served in what you would expect in a place like this: try the "Shark's Tooth" with Purple Label Rum (151 proof) for a really tasty spanking, or the more traditional "Zombie", "Mai Tai" and "Scorpion". After a few of these, you'll be underwater too! and just ready for some appetizers!

After writing a small blog tid bit about the Pupu Platter, it just so happens that the Trader Dick's Sampler for Two does the trick! (Only, for me, it's for one!): Tempura Prawn (truly jumbo shrimp, perfectly prepared); Tahitian Ribs (slow cooked, nicely glazed and very tender); Potstickers (traditional); Chicken Satay; and Thai Egg Rolls! This sampler is served with an array of dipping sauces. I could eat this every day!

Next comes the Won Ton Noodle Soup: this is not a dainty portion, but a meal in itself: pork filled wontons, noodles, chicken, shrimp, snow peas, water chestnuts, and on and on...

Soft Shell Crabs! Are you kidding me? These were perfectly fried, light and airy and placed on a bed of shredded greens napped with, what could be termed, about the best scallion sauce I have every tasted. I could have easily consumed a dozen shots of the dressing alone!

Singapore Noodles (aka Singapore Mei Fun, or Singapore Chow Mei Fun): I absolutely love this dish as anyone that knows me can attest. A nice curried fine rice vermicelli, with chicken, char sui, veggies, shrimp, etc. Simply fantastic.

The full menu is extensive with some very creative offerings, e.g., Mongolian Lamb Chops, Prawns with Honey Glazed Walnuts and Pacific Rim Surf and Turf. There is nothing on this menu that I would not love to try. Find Trader Dick's the next time you're in Reno and visit them at the Nugget website too!

Brand ~ A Rare Steakhouse Well Done?

2009-05-21T08:23:00.000-07:00

I had the pleasure of dining at Monte Carlo's Brand last week in Las Vegas. Their sound bite is: "Brand's menu is rich with imaginative interpretations of classic steakhouse favorites, featuring big, bold one-of-a-kind chops and extensive wine list." Well, that all may be true - here is my take:

There is no doubt that the decor is classy, with a section devoted to cocktails and conversation, along with the main dining area. Guests can also eat in the lounge. I saw gargantuan lobsters and steaks streaming out of the kitchen to be eagerly devoured by expectant diners. The staff was courteous, though not always attentive. My Waiter was not well versed on the French technique of sous vide, basically food cooked in a vacuum sealed bag in a water bath of precisely controlled temperature. Interesting, because my side dish was a sous vide of vegetables.

My meal consisted of: (1) chilled shell fish appetizer (oyster, two shelled shrimp, split petite lobster tail in shell, and king crab leg section (small), accompanied by: minionette, cocktail sauce and grated horse raddish. My table lacked salt and pepper (although one staff brought over a huge grinder and showered my food with pepper - like an ash fall from Etna); (2) an authentic Japanese Kobe 5 oz. steak with the vegetable sous vide (the medley included asparagus tips, mushrooms, a few root vegetables in a nice cream sauce, paired with Parmesan crisps impregnated with truffle flakes). Brand also serves American Kobe in various forms, including a carpaccio appetizer. It was the cold shellfish starter listed in the entrance display menu that lured me into Brand.

Review: (1) the oyster (one) was wonderful (I should have ordered a plateful of these and omitted the rest); the shrimps were ok, but not memorable; the lobster was over cooked an tasteless and the crab was still frozen. At this point - no Waiter within ear or eye shot - so, the crab had to thaw until ready to eat. (2) the Kobe was excellent and worth every penny (Yen, I mean), and with the exception of the under cooked root vegetables, the sous vide was very good, particularly the cheese crisps. I thought it a bit odd though when my Waiter placed a steak knife at the side of my plate, when Japanese Kobe can be eaten with a spoon - must be force of habit!

All in all, not bad. The owners need to be a bit more attentive to the little details that distinguish the exceptional restaurant.

The Monte Carol also houses Andre's French Restaurant (one Michelin Star and 5 Diamonds) - I should have eaten there. Brand has potential and will, no doubt, evolve into a remarkable place to dine.

The Pupu Platter

2009-05-21T07:53:00.000-07:00

The Pupu Platter (Flickr photo) is a wonderfully composed contrivance of tasty tidbits. Legend has it that the Pupu was twirled up by a Cantonese chef at Don the Beachcomber in the mid 1930's for customers to enjoy with exotic drinks of the time. The Pupu has endured because of its alluring reminiscence of the south sea islands. Typically, the Pupu is comprised of fried chicken wings, crab rangoon (wonton skins filled with cream cheese and crabmeat), rumaki (again, an invented dish of bacon wrapped chicken livers and water chestnuts), thin slices of barbecued pork (aka char sui ~ very Chinese), glazed spareribs, egg rolls, and sometimes beef satay that customers could grill at the table. Now, there's an interesting combo ~ let's place fiery hot charcoal embers or a can of live lit Sterno in front of someone who has imbibed about 6 mai tais, and watch the fun! The "p" in Pupu sometimes stands for Pyrotechnics. Actually, Pupu or little bites in Hawaiian is similar to the Chinese translation of Dim Sum. This whole arrangement is fanned out on a wooden dish or plate with a nice saucer of hot mustard in the center.

I love the Pupu, while many sneer with contemptuous disgust. It is simple pleasure that takes me to a time and place of palm trees, white sand beaches, the scent of flowers in the ocean breeze and azure waters. The array of flavors, textures and aromas is captivating, particularly when nestled among fish nets, Tiki statues, torches and dried bloated puffer fish suspended from the ceiling.

Breakfast Commentary

2009-05-11T14:07:00.000-07:00

Well, you see them everywhere, but primarily in queue awaiting the certainty of a sublime narcosis induced by amounts of food so vast that any expectation of quality is irrelevant. What is it that has attracted such legions of professional buffet goers? And, they continue to spawn generations of devotees. How did things devolve to such a state?

I have a theory that is co-mingled with the same ingredients that gave rise to this slothful herd of grazers, as with those forces that also created the culture of entitlement! For the love of God, how many breakfast platters, strewn with fields of a disgusting mush of potatoes, diced peppers, well beyond their productive lives, infested with mismanaged rashers of bacon, or worse yet "facsimile" of sausage, overly faux buttered toast points, and no less than 6 extra large eggs (cooked to your preference) can be consumed, or worse yet, enjoyed. Everything about this meal is horrid. I am not sure, but many top chefs have been said to judge the career potential of a new intern by their ability to prepare a simple scrambled egg. Yet many of these "value" restaurants breed a staff of line cooks that can neither scramble, poach, nor fry an egg without out ruining its intrinsic characteristic.

There is hope: I plead with you to take notice of the varying breakfasts enjoyed by millions of people: inexpensive, highly nutritious, satisfying, and easy to prepare:

China: Gee Ha Wot Mein - wonton noodles (simmer skins cut into strips in boiling water for a few minutes, drain) and top with oyster sauce, light soy sauce, sesame oil, sesame seeds and a little chile garlic paste

India: idlis and dosas with tea and milk, often with samosas (wow! you could have mimosas with this too! - not Indian but the orange juice and champagne concoction has an appealing symmetry!)

Switzerland: muesli - grains with nuts, and yogurt

Mexico: huevos rancheros..... and so on.

Yet many of you still cringe at the thought of departure from mainstream breakfast fare. You know who you are, and do care one whit what people in Tibet or the Maldives have for their morning meal. (You are neither compelled to go blog surfing to find the perfect breakfast alternative).

So, have some fun, do a little research, and for some special occasion, please depart from the same old boring, lackluster breakfast. (Yes, I too, but infrequently, enjoy the elusive, expertly crafted homemade biscuit with sausage gravy, but I can assure you that it is not prepared by that ilk that slings up the breakfast platter spectacular!)